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Clifford Allison's Buick Late Model *Updated 9-12-20

 
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BW



Joined: 01 Feb 2018
Posts: 209
Location: Lick Creek, Alabama

PostPosted: Sun Aug 16, 2020 8:33 pm    Post subject: Clifford Allison's Buick Late Model *Updated 9-12-20 Reply with quote

Clifford Allison's Buick Late Model Sportsman

PART 1: Background and Chassis Modifications

I've had several requests for WIPs on some of my builds and I had posted several back before the site crashed a few years ago. Of course all of those were lost and I've just not taken the time and effort to post any until now. With the present Alabama weather almost too unbearably hot and humid to do anything outside this time of year, I figured the time was right to post a WIP. Next, I had to decide what to build and to what level of detail. I wanted to share some of my techniques that my help you or give you some ideas. Also, I know I get inspired by some of the members' work here on Randy's so maybe I can help inspire some of you. Now, I'm definitely NOT trying to infer that I'm a better builder than anyone here on Randy's. Remember, the good Lord made us so we cannot pat ourselves on the back or kick ourselves in our rear too easily. There are many of you who are members who are MUCH better modelers than myself. I am constantly amazed at the outstanding builds done here on Randy's. You's better believe I pay attention, study your posts, and take notes to continually improve my own builds. Sharing info and techniques is what makes this forum so good and enjoyable to be a part of. My hope is it will continue to be so. In addition, It makes this hobby still enjoyable for me.

Many of you know that I'm from Alabama and consequently I'm a big Alabama Gang Fan. I was so lucky and blessed to be involved in racing and to be around Bobby, Donnie, Davey, Clifford, and, of course Red Farmer and all the other great drivers from Alabama. These guys were my heroes growing up. In the summertime it wasn't unusual to be at a speedway 3-4 times a week. B.I.R., Montgomery, Sayre, Warrior, Cullman, Dixie, and Moulton speedways are just a few of the tracks I spent many a day and night with my dad and uncles. I'm sure many of you have the same experiences in your hometown and can relate.

I've built numerous models of all these drivers' race cars except for Clifford. When doing research of Clifford's race cars, I came across photos of the Buick Late Model he drove in the ALL PRO Racing Series as well as many of the local weekly shows around Alabama. I had a Monogram Quaker State Buick kit as well as a Revell ASA kit in my stash and I really didn't know what to do with but now I had my inspiration. I've read that Clifford was a expert race car fabricator and was just beginning to make his climb to race driver stardom when his tragic accident occurred. I hope this build will in some small way honor Clifford.

The real thing:
[img]

Kits:
[img]

The chassis that comes with the ASA kit is a Dillon Chassis and I think this is what Clifford used. At least this is what it looks like in the limited number of photos I found. I know Bobby used a Dillon Chassis on one of his Late Models at about the same time Clifford started moving up in his young career so I reasoned this was the same chassis or same type chassis Clifford used.

Photo of Bobby's Dillon Chassied car:
[img]

Anyway, I like the look of the Dillon Chassis and I'm interested to build my first one so this is what I'm going to use. After measuring and doing some figurin', I found I had to extend the chassis 1cm to fit the wheelbase of the Monogram Buick body. I made the cuts where I thought it would make less work on all the other chassis components. Plus, I needed to stick a V-8 engine into a chassis made for a V-6. After making my cuts, I made the extensions on the frame using Evergreen #177 .100 x .156 strips. I drilled each end and glued in a short piece of .035 rod at each end to help strengthen the joint. I did the same on the tubular upper front hoop using Evergreen .080 rod. The red circles show where I made my cuts and added the extensions. I use Tamiya Quick Setting Weld Glue and after drying I fill the joint with Loctite Professional Superglue and use kicker to quicly dry the superglue. After glue has dried I clean up the joint using sanding sticks. See Photo #1.

PHOTO #1
[img]

Next, I found I had to cut the ASA kit's front hoop off to fit inside the Monogram Buick's body. (I did glue the front grill and fascia onto the body for test fitting purposes.) I rplaced the front hoop using Evergreen 1/16" rod bent to correct shape. I used more of the rod for the vertical braces. I also used some .080 rod for additional vertical bracing on the back part of the front snout. See Photo #2.

PHOTO #2
[img]


I added the passenger side nerf bars from the ASA kit but I added my own bottom plate using Evergreen sheet plastic to match the kit's driver side. This gave me a better way to secure the body to the frame later during final construction. See the red circles in Photo #3. In addition, I had to raise the height on the interior roll cage to fit the height of the Monogram body's roof height. A 3/8" extension using Evergreen .080 rod did the trick. See the blue circles for reference.

PHOTO #3
[img]


I matched the underside bracing on both sides and added a transmission cross member brace. See Photo #4.

PHOTO #4
[img]

Next, I enclosed the interior tub using Evergreen sheet plastic. I had to drill a hole for the driveshaft. See Photo #5.

PHOTO #5
[img]


Again I used Evergreen sheet plastic to enclose the front part of the transmission/exhaust tunnel. After measuring with the monogram kit engine, I made engine mounts using Evergreen C-Channel. I also had to cut and reposition the front suspension arms (See blue cicles.) See Photo #6.

PHOTO #6
[img]

After studying photos of the interior (or at least what I could see) I noticed there was a piece of sheet metal covering the inside portion of the interior tub from the passenger door to the transmission hump. I made this using Evergreen sheet plastic. Although difficult to see in this photo, I placed a X-Bead diagonally corner to corner by carefully bending on a steel straightedge ruler. I'll add some better photos of this after painting. I'll paint it using either stainless steel or aluminium metalizer paints. This will fully enclose the interior tub. Kinda cool looking! I also added new rear kicker bars to the cage and drilled a hole for the driver seat. I drilled and glued in a .035 piece of rod that corresponds to the hole in the pan that will make installing the seat much easier. See Photo #7.

PHOTO #7
[img]


I had planned to install the quick-change rear end after painting the chassis red but I soon discovered it would be almost impossible to glue in place once all the chassis was put together and detailed. So I went ahead and glued it in at this point and I'll go back and hand paint after painting the chassis. See Photo #8.

PHOTO #8
[img]


In Part 2 I will show how the chassis mates to the body. I will add a few more details to the chassis and begin getting the body modified from a Winston Cup car to a Late Model Sportsman. I know it may be difficult to understand where I'm going with this build but hopefully it will start making better sense in the next part.

That's all for now but more to come!

More photos of the real car:

[img]

[img]

Thanks for looking!

-Bobby


Last edited by BW on Sat Sep 12, 2020 1:08 pm; edited 4 times in total
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Orangeastre



Joined: 29 Jan 2018
Posts: 209

PostPosted: Sun Aug 16, 2020 9:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you for sharing. Your builds are Alabama Gang reference material for me!
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Rob Spires
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Joined: 27 Jan 2018
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 16, 2020 9:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Incredible fab work so far! Iím looking forward to watching this one come together!
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wildbill72



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
Posts: 92
Location: Grand Rapids, Mi

PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2020 10:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Awesome work!
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Mack



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
Posts: 715
Location: deep south

PostPosted: Tue Aug 18, 2020 11:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Suscribed!! Check your pms
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life is hard, it's harder when you're stupid. John Wayne
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afx



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 19, 2020 7:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great looking project Bobby.
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Racer14



Joined: 13 Feb 2018
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Location: Rockford, IL

PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2020 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Super nice build. Keep 'em coming.
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Dennis O
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 23, 2020 12:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very cool Bobby. I appreciate the detail pictures as I always learn something.
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BW



Joined: 01 Feb 2018
Posts: 209
Location: Lick Creek, Alabama

PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 2020 8:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clifford Allison LMS Build Update 08-24-20

PART 2: Final Chassis Modifications and Body Modifications.

In Part 1 I completed most of the chassis mods except for the front stance height. I built the rear end right out of the box with absolutely NO modifications. The rear end height looked spot on, The front ride height sat too high for my liking so I modified it the following way: I added sheet plastic cut to a triangle shape which matched the shape of the ASA kit's upper A-Arm. Then I glued another piece of triangle shaped plastic with a hole drilled in to match and align with the lower A-Arm mounting hole. Doing this added the proper height to the upper A-Arm which in turn allowed me to mount the spindle higher thus lowering the front ride height. I cut a piece of .080 Evergreen rod and pinned top and bottom using .035 Evergreen rod as my mounting points to both upper and lower A-Arms. I then used the spindle from the ASA kit, pinned it, then punched out a piece of plastic using a paper punch for the backing plate and glued it to the vertical rod between the A-Arms. I then drilled the backing plate and the corresponding point in the vertical rod and attached the spindle in place. It did require SEVERAL test fits with the body on the chassis to ensure I had the ride height I wanted. I then glued on the idler arms on both sides. See red circles on Photos #9 and #10.

PHOTO #9
[img][/img]

PHOTO #10
[img][/img]

Before I could prime the chassis, I needed to check the engine fit with 180 degree headers built and attached. Some of the photos of the actual car showed a Schoenfeld Header contingency sticker so that was the design for the headers I was going to make. I found some photos of Schoenfeld 180 headers for a small block Chevy. See Photos #11 & #12.

PHOTO #11


I found some 16 Gauge wire in the jewelry-making section at my local Hobby Lobby. It looked perfect for scratch-building the headers. See Photo #13.

PHOTO #13
[img]
I drilled correct size holes in the heads and then glued a piece of the wire in each hole. I cut the wire a little longer than needed to give some fudge room. Next, following the reference photos, I carefully bent each wire simply using my fingers. This wire is soft and bends easily and using a pair of round pliers left marks so I just used my fingers to bend to shape. This was actually easier than expected and only took a few minutes. After bending all the wire, I test fitted the engine into the chassis to see how the headers fit. After a few cuts, and a little tweaking, the engine and headers fit nicely! See Photos #14 & 15.

PHOTO #14
[img][/img]

PHOTO #15
[img][/img]

There is no need to attach the end of the headers to the exhaust dumps. All of this is hidden in the transmission/header tunnel that I had boxed in earlier. I just had to make sure it wasn't too crowded in the tunnel and I had room to slide in the exhaust dumps. The dumps were made from K&S 5/32" aluminium tubing. See Photo #16.

PHOTO #16
[img][/img]


BODY MODS

I first had to decide to what level of mods I wanted to take the Monogram Buick Winston Cup body to an ALL-PRO Late Model style body. I decided the two main mods were going to be dropping the front nose down and add body side skirts. It looks like in the photos that the roof was chopped a little but I decided chopping the roof was going to be too much work and above my skill level. So, just dropping the nose and adding the side skirts would be enough for me.

Dropping the nose:
I eyeballed the photos of the real car and decided about 1/4" drop would be pretty close. I boiled a deep pot of water then let cool for a few minutes. One word of caution: DO NOT USE BOILING WATER! Using boiling water will most likely end up warping the body. I let the water cool to the point to where the water is hot but not boiling. I carefully dipped the front end in the hot water up to the A-Pillars for about 10 seconds then laid the body down on the edge of my counter tops so the front end hung over the edge. I then gently pushed down using even pressure to slowly bend down the nose. I repeated this this about 5 times until I got the desired drop. I then repeated the process on the hood to match the same amount of drop I had in the front end. I placed the hood on the body as I was going through this process. Remember to TAKE YOUR TIME with this step. It's very easy to ruin a perfectly good body by rushing this process of using water that is too hot. I would recommend you practice this with a test mule to get the feel for it.

After getting the nose and hood bent to shape I noticed the front wheel openings were now too narrow. I'll simply use my Dreme with the barrel sander and re-open to the desired and correct width for tire clearance. See Photo #17.
PHOTO #17
[img][/img]

SIDE SKIRTS:
I measured marked and cut off about 3/8" off the sides between the wheel openings using my Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel. I then glued a strip of Evergreen #156 .60 x .125" to the inside of the body allowing about half to extend below the edge to give me a lip in which to glue on the side skirts. I made the side skirts by cutting Evergreen plastic the same thickness as the Monogram body. The width of the plastic was 1/2' wide which allows room for trimming later. I glued on the skirts using Tamiya Quick Setting weld glue and after drying I ran beads of Loctite superglue down each seam join on both inside and outside. This gave to good joint strength for the skirts. After the superglue thoroughly dried, I sanded the joins nice and smooth using various grits of sanding sticks. See Photos #18 & 19

PHOTO #18

[img][/img]

PHOTO #19
[img][/img]

I also glued on the front grill and fascia as well as the rear fascia. I filled the gaps using Perfect Plastic Putty. I had a considerable gap at the front grill joints so I backed the gaps from the inside using Evergreen strips and filled the front gaps using Perfect Plastic Putty. I wiped the seams using a wet Q-Tip. After drying, I sanded everything smooth using various grits of sandpaper./ I grinded all four wheel openings using my Dremel tool with the barrel sanding tip. I then cleaned them up using 220, 400, 600, and finally 1000 grit sandpaper. I also filled in the vents in the front fascia and headlight cover using superglue then sanded smooth using various grits of sanding sticks.

Next, I drilled holes in the side skirts for the jacking tubes and also drilled the holes for the exhaust dumps. Finally, I slid the chassis underneath the body to check everything: tire clearance, exhaust ports, alignment, etc. When I was happy with everything, I gave the body a good wet sanding using 1000 grit sandpaper. I washed the body with warm water and Dash dishwashing liquid, rinsed well and let it air dry. She's now ready for primer! I'll be using Tamiya Fine White Primer. See Photos #20-27.

PHOTO #20
[img][/img]

PHOTO #21
[img][/img]

PHOTO #22
[img][/img]

PHOTO #23
[img][/img]

PHOTO #24
[img][/img]

PHOTO #25
[img][/img]

PHOTO #26
[img][/img]

PHOTO #27
[img][/img]

TIRES AND WHEELS:
I decided to use the ASA kit's 5-Wide wheels and tires. I cleaned up the center hubs and painted them using Model Master Metalizer Exhaust. I then drybrushed them using aluminium. I painted the caps with Tamiya TS-21 Gold. I left the outer rings chrome because that was what were on the real car. Plus, they look cool chrome! I shaved off the Goodyear and Eagle molding off the tires using a X-Acto blade then sanded smooth using sandpaper and the polished smooth using a nail polish stick. I sanded the tread using 100 grit sanding stick. I gave the tires a good wash with warm water and Dawn. I mounted the tires with the wheels the taped off the tread with masking tape then hand painted the side walls with a couple coats of Future. Tires are now ready for decals. I'm thinking of going with Hoosier Tires just for something different. Some of the photos of the real car show Hoosiers being used. See Photos #28-30.

PHOTO #28
[img][/img]

PHOTO #29
[img][/img]

PHOTO #30
[img][/img]

Next, I had to make sure the dash and attached air box was aligned with the engine correctly. After, test fitting I found I had to extend the air box forward the same amount I extended the chassis. Made sense. I used some sheet plastic to extend the air box to correct length. See Photo #31.

PHOTO #31
[img][/img]

Before priming the chassis, I applied superglue with a toothpick to all of the joints of the roll bars and chassis joints. I let the superglue to dry overnight WITHOUT any kicker. Allowing the superglue to dry by itself overnight allowed it to shrink and when completely dried, it looks just like a welded joint. Afetr a good cleaning again using warm water and Dawn, the chassis is ready for primer! After the primer had dried overnight, I dry fitted the wheels and tires, dash, and carefully slid the chassis underneath the body. I wanted see how everything looks. I am well pleased! See Photos #32-34.

PHOTO #32
[img][/img]

PHOTO #33
[img][/img]

PHOTO #34
[img][/img]

This wraps up Part 2. Next, in Part 3, I'll be painting the chassis and body. I'll also be getting a few other details completed.

Thanks for looking! More to come.
-Bobby
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Lionpride



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
Posts: 169

PostPosted: Fri Aug 28, 2020 12:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dang Bobby, this is awesome!
I've missed this from you. ..up
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BW



Joined: 01 Feb 2018
Posts: 209
Location: Lick Creek, Alabama

PostPosted: Sun Aug 30, 2020 8:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

UPDATE 8-30-20

PART 3

PAINTING CHASSIS & BODY

After getting the chassis and body all cleaned and primed, it's now time for paint. I'll be using Tamiya TS-86 Pure Red and TS-26 Pure White. The details will be painted with other brands of paint which I will explain throughout the build.

For the chassis, I decanted the TS-86 Pure Red, thinned using Mr. Hobby Leveling Thinner and shot through my airbrush. I find it's easier to get all around the roll bars and other chassis details using my airbrush. BTW, I use a Paasche Talon dual-action airbrush with a Craftsman air compressor with a built-in pressure regulator and an in-line Passche water trap.

PHOTO #35
[img][/img]

PHOTO #36
[img][/img]

After the paint had completely dried, I hand painted the rear and front suspension details using Vallejo acrylic Metal Colors. I used Gunmetal and Duraluminum. I use a drop of Vallejo Flow Improver to prevent brush marks. I've found that using Vallejo acrylic paint covers the lacquer Tamiya paint much easier. Using Model Master Metalizer over the Tamiya doesn't work. It just eats into the red and mixes together creating a mess. After hand painting all the suspension details using Vallejo Metal Colors, I then drybrush using the Vallejo Metal Color Duraluminium. I also pick out various bolt heads using the Duraluminium.

PHOTO #37
[img]

PHOTO #38
[img][/img]

PHOTO #39
[img]


Next, I added the oil tank, driveshaft, and a pan under the driver seat I made from sheet plastic and painted Stainless Steel.

PHOTO #40
[img][/img]

PHOTO #41
[img][/img]

Next, I masked and airbrushed the instrument panel Model Master Stainless Steel. I painted the dials black, then painted the dials numbers and needles. After drying, I placed a drop of Micro Krystal Clear in each dial. I then glued onto the chassis using superglue.

PHOTO #42
[img]

PHOTO #43
[img]

Next, I glued in the completed and painted engine, the Moroso air cleaner, and the radiator and hose. I made the braided hose using a piece of cheap necklace I found in the craft section at WalMart years ago. It's the perfect size and when clear coated using model Master Flat Clear, it looks just right for braided hose. The Aeroquip fittings are made using Plastruct Hexagonal rod which I drilled out to fit over the hose. I connected to the radiator using a pin made from Evergreen .035 rod drilled and glued into the radiator. I painted the fittings first using Model Master Stainless Steel then used Tamiya Clear Red and Blue. I did wire the distributor and coil using yellow wire. The Accel Supercoil is from Miniatures of Maryland I purchased years ago. I also added a Purolater oil filter decal to the oil filter.

PHOTO #44
[img]

PHOTO #45
[img][/img]

PHOTO #46
[img][/img]

PHOTO #47
[img][/img]

Next, I added Detail Master harness buckles. I use tape with the sticky side up taped to my cutting mat to help contain the photo etched pieces after bending. I use a pair of flat end pliers to hold and bend each PE piece. I use some 1/8" black drafting tape for harnesses. I just follow the directions from Detail master and take my time. Nothing beats an Optivisor to help with my old tired eyes! I just take my time, with some good music in the background when working with PE. Patience is well rewarded!

PHOTO #48
[img]

The Tamiya file is really good for getting rid of any burrs after cutting each PE piece.

PHOTO #49
[img][/img]

Next photo shows almost completed chassis. You can see that I've added the steering wheel, rear view mirror, and fire extinguisher. I've also attached bar padding made from 1/8" shrink tubing. I split pieces long way and then slip over the bars. I'll go back and place a drop of superglue to secure each pad. All that remains to complete chassis is to add the tires and wheels. I'm waiting on my Powerslide Hoosier tire decals coming from Mike's.

PHOTO #50
[img][/img]

BODY PAINT

After priming with Tamiya Fine White Primer, I painted the entire body white using Tamiya TS-26 Pure White. After drying about five days, I masked off the white areas using Tamiya masking tape then airbrushed inside and outside the body using the decanted TS-86 Pure Red thinned with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner.

PHOTO #51
[img]

PHOTO #52
[img]


I CAREFULLY removed the masking tape as soon as I finished airbrushing. The results are pretty good. Just a couple areas of overspray and leaking under the masking tape.

PHOTO #53
[img][/img]

PHOTO #54
[img]

PHOTO #55
[img]

After the red completely dried after a few days, I masked and painted the headlight covers, grill, and dry break gas filler. I also decided to paint the front ducting rather than using photo etch. I'll use screen decals and Microscale rivets to add details to these ducts.

PHOTO #56
[img]

PHOTO #57
[img]

After trying the gold stripes from the Bobby Allison Piper Aircraft decal sheet, they simply did not work well. A lot of wrinkles, tearing, and cracking made them impossible to use. So, I decided to mask and paint them. I decanted some TS-21 Gold and airbrush them on. They turned out nice. Now almost ready for decals.

PHOTO #58
[img]


The glare of the lights kind of distort the gold stripes, but they are more even and symmetric than the photo shows. Besides, most of the stripes will covered with decals.
PHOTO #59
[img][/img]

After cleaning up the body by wet sanding with some 6000, 8000, and 12000 grit sand paper, she's ready for decals!

In Part 4, I'll be applying decals. Thanks for looking!
-Bobby
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afx



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
Posts: 209

PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2020 7:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chassis and paint work is top notch!
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BW



Joined: 01 Feb 2018
Posts: 209
Location: Lick Creek, Alabama

PostPosted: Sun Sep 06, 2020 5:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

UPDATE: 9/6/20

PART 4: Decals

In this part I'll be applying the decals. I have two sheets of the Bobby Allison #12 Piper Aircraft decals I've had for many years. I'll use these sheets for the Piper sponsorship on the quarter panels and hood. I already tried using the gold stripes but they tore and wrinkled so bad they were unusable so I masked and airbrushed the gold stripes. This was posted in Part 3.

Since Clifford was #24 and the Piper sheet is Bobby's #12, I'll have to make my own numbers. I used some generic white ink jet decal paper and designed the numbers on Microsoft Word. I also made the blue Clifford's driver names on clear decal paper as well as the blue roof numbers. Notice the roof numbers are a different font than the door numbers. After printing the decals, I coated them using Testors Decal Bonder Spray.

PHOTO #60
[img][/img]

PHOTO #61


PHOTO #62


For the contingency decals, I really did not use any one reference photo. I used all of the photos I could find of Clifford's All Pro race cars and I also referenced the All Pro Reunion site from Facebook for just an idea of what contingencies were used during the late-80s. These race cars were raced not only in the All Pro series, but many other local and regional races so they were raced hard and were constantly being re-painted, re-decaled, and re-numbered.

My technique for decalling is to cut out each individual decal, soak in water for a few seconds and then placed on a damp paper towel. I then remove the decal from the decal backing and apply to the model. I adjust the placement with a paint brush or a toothpick. Once in place, I lightly tamp the decal with a paper towel to soak up any water. I also brush smooth the decal with a soft paint brush. After the decal dries a few minutes, I'll brush on a little Solvaset to help the decal snuggle down. After the decals have dried a day or two, I'll GENTLY clean the body with a soft infant wash cloth and warm water to remove any decal residue.

All the decals applied:

PHOTO #63
[img][/img]

PHOTO #64
[img][/img]

PHOTO #65
[img]


For the front ducting, I used a Slixx screen decal sheet and a Microscale Rivet decal sheet:

PHOTO #66
[img][/img]

I used the Powerslide Hoosier Tire decal sheet for the tires. After the decals dried, I clear coated using Model Master Acrylic Flat Clear.

PHOTO #67
[img][/img]

That's all for now. Really starting to come together. In the next part, I'll be using a new clear coat to seal the decals, installing the glass, final construction, and final reveal.

Thanks for looking! More to come.
-Bobby
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Lionpride



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
Posts: 169

PostPosted: Sun Sep 06, 2020 5:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Those wheels are money!
The whole thing is money!
Thanks for posting all the pics. ..up
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BW



Joined: 01 Feb 2018
Posts: 209
Location: Lick Creek, Alabama

PostPosted: Sat Sep 12, 2020 1:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

UPDATE: 9/12/20

PART 5: Final Details & Reveal

In this last part I'll be wrapping up the last details. First, the rear spoiler was fabricated by cutting down the Monogram kit spoiler then gluing a clear piece of plastic cut to size. I painted the strips on both sides of the clear using Model Master Stainless Steel Metalizer. This hides the glue marks. I also finished using Microscale rivet decals to add interest and simulate the real thing. You'll see it better on the reveal photos.

PHOTO #68:
[img][/img]

Next, I mounted the wheels and tires to the chassis and attached the window net. The window net came from a Polar Light Dodge Charger kit. I let the net hang down between the door bars and seat so you can see the interior better. This completes the chassis.

PHOTO #69:
[img][/img]

After the decals dried for few days I decided to clear coat the entire body using a new clear coat. I've used Tamiya TS-13 Clear Gloss in the past with mixed results. The TS-13 works fine as long as you apply in several light coats. If you apply TS-13 too heavily too soon, you can wrinkle the decals. I had heard about Mr. Color GX 112 UV Cut Clear Gloss being very good.

The UV Cut means that it will not "yellow" over time. I've experienced yellowing before over white using Future so I was not going to use this. I tested the Mr. Color Clear on a plastic spoon I had painted both red and white and decaled. I applied with my airbrush using several light coats and finished with a couple of medium coats. Everything dried and leveled out and looked fantastic. I then took a leap of faith and used it on the body. It turned out great! I only had one decal that wrinkled slightly (one of the contingency decals) and that was because the clear coat got too heavy and pooled slightly crinkling the decal. It actually dried and became less crinkly but I replaced it anyway. The Mr. Color is very thick so I thinned it with Mr. Color Leveling Thinners with about 66% thinner to 33% Mr. Color Clear. This clear dries quickly but I let it dry for a few days then polished out with Novus #2 and it just popped!

PHOTO #70:
[img]

I attached all the glass using Krystal Klear and after completely dried, I attached the body to the chassis using superglue. She's now all finished! I know she's not perfect, but I'm very satisfied with the results and she looks good in my display with all my other Allison builds. Finally a Cliiford to go along with Bobby, Donnie, and Davey.

[img][/img]

I'll post more photos in the Showroom. Thanks to all who followed along and gave their encouragement. I wanted to post a WIP just to show how I approach and complete a build. I know I may have skipped a few items or slightly skimmed over a few things, so if anyone has any questions, please don't hesitate to ask! Thanks for looking and comments are always welcome!
-Bobby
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Firefly



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
Posts: 704
Location: New Jersey

PostPosted: Sat Sep 12, 2020 2:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Outstanding!
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Bill Jobson is my real name.
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R.J.



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
Posts: 342

PostPosted: Mon Sep 06, 2021 8:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

..applause excellent work Bobby.
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Roanoke, VA.
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hurricane21



Joined: 05 Feb 2018
Posts: 62
Location: Fayetteville NC

PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2021 1:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

..drool ..drool ..drool WOW! Amazing work.
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jchrisf



Joined: 11 Jul 2018
Posts: 101

PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2021 2:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for sharing, I learned a lot. What an incredible build.

One thing I would like to know is how did you paint the numbers and needles on the instrument panel?
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Henryjint



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
Posts: 1504
Location: NY State's Hudson Valley

PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2021 10:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just simply... BEAUTIFUL BUILD!!!!!!
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mach2mickey



Joined: 06 Feb 2018
Posts: 34

PostPosted: Thu Sep 09, 2021 11:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's modeling at a very adult level. Ourstanding. Shocked Shocked
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Lionpride



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
Posts: 169

PostPosted: Fri Sep 10, 2021 7:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bobby, you have the most well thought out game plan when starting a model. A reason and purpose for everything you do. Thanks for posting all the pics and narratives. It's appreciated here by all.

Don
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Michael F



Joined: 03 Feb 2018
Posts: 47
Location: Kempen/Germany

PostPosted: Sat Sep 11, 2021 5:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very cool and a nice tribute build. ..up ..up
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Greetings from germany!!
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Bob B



Joined: 22 Nov 2020
Posts: 37

PostPosted: Mon Sep 13, 2021 9:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's beauty!
Well done!
Bob B
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