This is the 1998 John Deere Ford Taurus driven by Chad Little and owned by
Jack Rousch.
The kit is a Revell-Monogram 1998 #99 Taurus with decals from a 1996-97
John Deere Pontiac also from Revell-Monogram. Also it has decals from
various other sources.
Painting and decals:
The chassis and body interior are standard light grey. The body exterior
was first painted yellow overall.(testors) Then I masked it and from the
nose back it was painted with light green (of my own mixing) Finally I
masked and painted the rear and roof of the car dark green (again of my own
mixing) Now came the fun part!!! Decals!!! The roof and trunk decals
are stock form the Pontiac kit as are the rear panel and rear red stripe
decals (shortened slightly). I trimmed the hood decal at the front and
tapered it back at the sides since I couldn't make it fade from light to
dark as on the real car! I trimmed the door # 97's and the red stripe up
to the tan crescent separator band (between the yellow and green) and also
left the dark green blocks that were attached to the #97's. I applied the
tan crescents first then the door numbers. I then applied pieces of red
stripe as needed to finish the length of the body on each side. I then
applied the nose stripe. And the dark green squares rear of the door
numbers on each side (I cut these as a unit from the Pontiac sheet...note:I
had several JD sheets from several kits) I then applied the rear dark green
square/light green lower body decal (stock from the Pontiac kit). I then
applied fender decals from a #99 kit sheet and the decals behind and below
the door numbers from various other sources. Finally I applied grille and
headlight/turn signal lights and Taurus and ford oval decals from a #99
sheet! This model is not exact in that I didn't know that the rear red
stripe went all the way around the rear body! (I for the most part used
the Pontiac and some photos from Winston Cup Illustrated (very limited at
the time) as a guide for decal placement! Well, once the decaling was
done I applied the usual coat of testors high-gloss clear enamel to the
body. I then masked and painted the clear parts. After the body was dry
I painted the center caps, hood&trunk pins and the fuel filler inlet,
mounted the body on the chassis and installed the clear parts! As I said
it's not totally accurate but it looks very nice and is close enough for me
(Considering the cost savings of not having to buy a separate decal sheet)!
It took some work but the finished product was well worth it!!!
Complete instructions for painting and assembly of chassis, clear
parts, and construction of slab sides can be found at the bottom of the main page!