Ricky Rudd's 2000 Texaco Havoline Ford Taurus

Left Side View | Left Front View | Right Rear View

This is the #28 Texaco Havoline Taurus scheme that Ricky Rudd drove at the 2000 Bud Shootout/Daytona 500. It is a R/M 2000 #28 Pro Finish kit built from the box with a few mods by me.

I started this one by removing the "glass" from the prepainted body and removing the connecting material between the windshield and rear glass. I did this by scoring it just behind the wind shield until it separated. I then scored it at the rear glass and the side windows which I left attached to the rear glass. To see a rough sketch of what I did CLICK HERE. I then glued the windows back in. Next ...after the glue dried well... I masked the windows and the wheel wells and side windows with scotch magic transparent tape. There is a raised lip around the windshield and rear glass which I masked up to thereby leaving a nice black border around them on the inside and made the areas between the rear glass and side glass red like the body interior thereby making the appearance more realistic. This modification also made for more room in the roof area for lowering the rear of the car. One important note here! Make sure when you mask the side windows that you seal them all the way around... I used a single piece of tape on them and the vents molded into the windows pushed out on it and allowed the 3 corners to come loose just enough for the white undercoat and the red to fog the corners of the windows!!! This made for a situation I could not fully correct!!! Oh well, on to the painting of the interior! I masked the driver and passenger side window openings by applying a strip of tape to each of the 3 sides of each window opening from the outside overlaying each as I went and then applying tape across all 3 to cover the opening in the center. As for the wheel well openings I simply applied tape to the outside of the openings and sealed it down with my finger nail along the edges. There was some light overspray on the faces of the narrow edges of the wells which I touched up with gloss black. The tape did not pull off any of the graphics on the body at any point.

Next I painted the chassis, engine and other interior parts (Even though they are molded in color I do not like colored plastic for my models paint looks much nicer!) I then painted the padding, ignition boxes, pedals and the front suspension areas that were to be red or black (That weren't molded in that color) and assembled the chassis pan and suspension parts front and rear. I decided to paint the rear springs black with yellow coil detail (A first for me). I then assembled the roll cage parts along with the dash. I decided not to use the decal on the sheet glued behind the dash because 1) The openings were not nearly large enough and 2) the decals weren't really any good either. I decided to paint the gauges silver and apply silxx dash gages over the holes one at a time. I then applied the decals to the driver figure and painted the black areas on the uniform (I did decide to paint the helmet silver as suggested in the instructions) and it turned out very nicely! I then glued the seat and driver onto the floorpan (I should have made adjustments to the seat and figure because the drivers helmet hits the cage side top bar badly if you glue it in first without any adjustments ...it sits a bit too high in the seat) anyway, this lack of adjustment caused me to have to superglue the front left corner of the cage assembly in and then the rear corner and then the right rear and finally the right front. I then glued in the radiator after which I assembled the engine/transmission and installed it. I next installed the crossbar group (Between the radiator and engine and glued the front section of the cage to the front frame members. After all of this I went back and touched up all areas of assembly with whatever color they were painted. Next I trimmed about 1/16-3/32" off of the rear posts where the body and chassis screws together. This lowers the rear of the body on the chassis which still doesn't bring it down to a truly proper ride height but since the rear wheel openings are a bit too large you can't really lower it much more without making it look like a car going down the backstretch at Daytona at speed rather than a static stance. Also if you lowered it much more the skirts on the right side would drag! If the openings had been in proper size and proportion to the rear wheels it would have been perfect! Lastly I applied the decals to the body painted the fuel filler and hood and truck pins and applied a strip of black decal stock to the template split in the rear spoiler.

To see a rough drawing of what I did to the exhaust to make it flush with the body as explained in my "On The Bench" section of the Other Models Site you can CLICK HERE.

All in all this turned out to be a nice model when finished. There were things that could have been better like the tiny locator pins on the roll cage sides instead of the broad areas of contact in the regular glue kits and the lack of a fuel cell and ignition wires and the difficulty of painting the interior of the body without getting overspray on the outside. I also had to space the rear wheels out on the metal shaft with shims made from slices of tubing to make the track wider ...a reversal not a correction of the problems with the regular glue kit. I did like the look of the chassis though and the vinyl window net and hoses along with a driver figure (Which needs to be a bit smaller or the cage needs to be wider at the top... Oh yes I almost forgot the roll cage assembly is narrow at the top which is why the driver's head hits it when installed) and new exhaust, air cleaner and updated oil pan. The wheels and wheel openings actually line up as well even though the rear sits too high as I said. All things considered (As with all kits it seems there is nothing out there that is perfect) it turned out well ...this being my first Pro Finish kit didn't help either as I did as much learning for future building as anything else, much like the 2000-2001 mc and Taurus glue kits! I know this has been a long writeup but I hope it will be of some help to everyone who might want to build this kit!

Complete instructions for painting and assembly of chassis, clear parts, and construction of slab sides can be found at the bottom of the main page!

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