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Dick Trickle Mustang - Update with new pics Feb 12 -
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Democar00



Joined: 17 Feb 2009
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2011 1:02 am    Post subject: Dick Trickle Mustang - Update with new pics Feb 12 - Reply with quote

I know others have done it, and done it well, but here's my early 70's big block Trickle Mustang project.



I collected a Revell 69 Mustang Super CJ and a reissue Super Stocker kit... and then found this picture...



And other assorted info that tells me that Tricky Dick's car was basically a stock Mustang with a 65 Galaxie clip.
So thats what I'm going to do.
Here's the AMT Nascar floorpan and front clip grafted to the Revell Mustang rear.



The firewall from the AMT 67 Mustang will look better, once its adapted in...



Last edited by Democar00 on Mon Feb 13, 2012 2:02 am; edited 4 times in total
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Democar00



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PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2011 1:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The 427 from AMT's 66 Fairlane will fit nicely I think... and by nicely I mean barely.



Did this car run a single 4 or dual 4 barrels, anyone know? I assume a modified circle track pan and under the car headers, so thats what I'll have to fab up.

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herb



Joined: 23 Jul 2006
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2011 2:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will be staing tune. popcorn
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Democar00



Joined: 17 Feb 2009
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2011 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been working primarily on filling gaps and holes in the Mustang back half and blending the joint with the floorpan, I'd like it to be invisible.
I'd also like to make the front clip look more Galaxie and less fabbed, so a little work there should pay off.
Pics to come.
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tubbs



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Location: Tacoma, Wa.

PostPosted: Thu Oct 27, 2011 8:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is a very COOL subject for a build. If I remember right...it was MPC who put out a kit of that car in the 70s. I did build it then but it's long gone now. This build you're doing now.... will be Soooo much more detailed. Looking forward to more updates.
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Last edited by tubbs on Sun Oct 30, 2011 12:15 am; edited 1 time in total
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Democar00



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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2011 12:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The MPC kit was something I saw as a kid and never had, and they're not cheap nowadays!



It had the same chassis as the recent reissue Monte Carlo and GTO Super Stocker kits, which are a really great kit, but not at all accurate for this Mustang. The MPC body doesnt look right either.
I'll use or rob parts from three kits to build this and still spend way less than the old MPC kit.
I suspect once I get cage into it, it'll look pretty awesome.
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Bobby55



Joined: 14 Jan 2009
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2011 2:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great Start!! thumbsup That is the same body I used for mine.

I would love to see that 1:1 when they get it finished. Do you by chance know where that picture is and who's shop thats at?
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Democar00



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PostPosted: Fri Oct 28, 2011 9:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just did a google inage search for 'Dick Trickle Mustang; and came up with http://www.460ford.com/forum/showthread.php?t=109688
Some good info...
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Firefly



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PostPosted: Sat Oct 29, 2011 1:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool. popcorn
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Alwaysa3fan



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PostPosted: Sat Oct 29, 2011 7:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Democar00 wrote:
The MPC kit was something I saw as a kid and never had, and they're not cheap nowadays!





I remember my brother and I having at least two dozen of these kits, and the Jegs Camaro , when we were younger. If only we knew then.

Great looking project so far, can't wait to see it done.
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Democar00



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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 12:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Been while since I updated... in the meantime I got my eyes lasered, putting me out of scratchbuilding for a few weeks, but Ive been back at it.

I've bee taking things nice and slow, concentrating on making the pieces all fit nicely. Ive done a lot of subtle massaging of the join between the front floor and rear clip, added some connectors between the frame rails and the rear subframes and a number of small spots filled in with plastic and liquid solvent.



And fabbed up a rear package tray and rear firewall by cutting up the Mustang's interior for top part and .040 sheet plastic. Fits nice and should be prototypical enough.

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Democar00



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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 12:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

And dropped and recessed the top of the firewall to somewhat replicate the under-cowl area and contour as shown above on the real thing. more detail there to come later. This also allowed me to even out the body fit on the floorpan, which wasnt perfect before.
Sharp eyes might also notice the filled frame rail tops and the sides of the coil spring pockets filled, and some rounding of all edges. I wont be able to make the front clip look as round as a 65 Galaxie clip but it'll look less sharp edged I hope.



Here's what it looks like at this point. I also rounded off and smoothed the top of the trans tunnel to match the new firewall's contours and raised the sides of the floorpan with rectangular rod to better match the shape of a Mustang floor. This'll also give me somewhere consistent to mount the roll cage to.

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Democar00



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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 12:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

And here's the body fit to the frame, trunk cut out and trunk rails added, easy on this car since the edges are all pretty much straight. The 427 looks pretty big. Further research shows a single 4 barrel carb and lower valve covers, but we'll fix that much later.
I'm pleased, so far its pretty accurate to the prototype and fits nice and doesnt slop around.

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Rdkingjay



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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 12:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice work so far. Amazing, the steps we take for detail, huh?
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skeeter



Joined: 05 May 2007
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Location: Fuquay-Varina, NC

PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 4:27 am    Post subject: Trickle build Reply with quote

Hey,

Thanks for taking the time to post pictures and providing comments on your biuld. It's like watching your favorite weekly TV show, you can't wait till the following week to see what's happens next.

I like the way you plan and think through your model, its attention to small details that make the end result so outstanding.

Look forward to seeing your updates.

Skeeter
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Democar00



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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 5:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys ;)

I plan and think and go very slow, and I use masking tape. I cant imagine building without tape to stick things together to see how its going to work.
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Democar00



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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 5:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its time to start the roll cage. I know online there are lots of cage tutorials so I'll go quickly through how I do it. Its clean and simple and quick.

Here's what I use:



I drill the ends of the .080 rod with a 1 mm drill bit and insert a few millimeters of .040 rod with a dab of liquid solvent. I dont ever use superglue for cages.
Every joint in this cage will have a little 040 pin for strength and location.

First, the rear bar. Luckily the pics of the real car in primer tells us what the cage should roughly look like and so I've guessed where to locate the rear hoop.



I do not use heat to bend the .080 rod, I mark where I want the bends with the mechanical pencil and then carefully bend the rod around the stalk of a file, overbending carefully so I can position the rod at the angle I want. The evergreen rod stays nicely in the curve I want, its nice and malleable after a slight overbend.
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Democar00



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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 5:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Next, the front top bars. I'll do these both at once, so they're exactly the same length and I can make the complex compound bends identical. This is by far the hardest part. I'll be honest, doing these took 3 hours and a few tries. Pop open a can of patience and settle in.



Looks good, right? Now the other side too... located on pins that are glued only to the rocker rails, so it all comes apart easily. You can sorta see them here...



And with both sides taped in place... each with another pinned point where the bars meet the rear hoop

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Democar00



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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 6:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Test fitting the body, we can see how nice the fit is. Most real cages dont fit this nice, but we're building a show car here, this one will never see the track :)



I've taken particular care to make sure the cage doesnt touch the body anywhere and the windshield will still go in. I've forgotten about the windshield on more than one cage, causing much cursing later!

Now I can solvent these bars together. Once I add all the horizontal bars and door bars etc, it'll still all lift off the floorpan pins for painting.
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skeeter



Joined: 05 May 2007
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 6:28 pm    Post subject: Building roll cage Reply with quote

Roll-cage looks and appears to fit nicely. What's your technic for bending the tubing?

Keep us posted!

Skeeter
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Democar00



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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 7:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks skeeter.

I put a finger or thumb tight over the apex of the bend and just bent the rod over the file handle, paint brush handle or whatever. The pressure on the apex keeps it from breaking (95% of the time) and once you bend the rod, it'll spring back a little, so I just bend it farther than I need to and let it spring back. No heat means the tubing doesnt deform or melt and the bend stays flexible, whereas with heat it doesnt.

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skeeter



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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 8:03 pm    Post subject: Bending tubing for roll-cage Reply with quote

Well, I guess if I had read more closely the comments you added to pictures of roll-cage, I would not have ask my question. Thanks for the photo of you bending the tubing. I build early '60s dirt cars that we called "Skeeters", they were cut down '32 sedans with fuel injected small block Chevy motor with in-out box and some tracks allowed to run cars with wings. Some of the car builders used thick walled "gas" pipe to build primative roll-cage, so I use 1/16" solid round rod to build my cages. I use a tourch lighter to heat rod and bend around a nail on a flat wood surface. Your advice to open a can of patience and go at it is good advice. I go through several sticks of rod trying to get front and rear hoops.

Merry Christmas,
Skeeter
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Democar00



Joined: 17 Feb 2009
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 18, 2011 8:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ah yes, skeeters are awesome...
I spent ages messing around with altering kit cages and they never match my expectations. Now Ive done about a dozen cages with this method and they look 'right' to me.
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Democar00



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PostPosted: Sun Dec 25, 2011 3:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Horizontal bars



Driver's side door bars



And right side door bars - Here I cheated. The real car these are curved, but I made them straight. I'm going to have the body on and off 500 more times, and its best if the fit here isnt super tight.

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Democar00



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PostPosted: Sun Dec 25, 2011 3:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

And after hours of cutting, fish-mouthing and spacing correctly a bunch of fincky little uprights, the sides finished



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Democar00



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PostPosted: Sun Dec 25, 2011 3:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

We can see here from the pics of the original, the cage was... weird. The door bars were placed as low as possible, and the rear horizontal was extremely low. I've tried to recreate this, no kit cage would have looked right.

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Henrik



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PostPosted: Mon Dec 26, 2011 1:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thumbsup thumbsup thumbsup
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Democar00



Joined: 17 Feb 2009
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 2:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

And with all the other bars added...



Its a lot of fiddly fitting to keep it all square and proper, but now its looking 'right'

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Democar00



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PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 2:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There are a couple bars Ive skipped, but might add in later if it bothers me.
For now, lets move on to mounting up the front bumper, which we need to do before we tie in the front cage structure.

Rectangular tube mounts on the frame... which we'll trim down later to look better...



And mounting pins on the bumper itself



A little adjustment a drilling, and we have a fit that looks like this...

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Wild Bill



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PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 7:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So that's what you were up to today, well like they say a day building models is better than a day at work, Laughing
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Democar00



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PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 4:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nah, I just posted an update while I had a minute, I'm actually a little farther ahead than this.

I hope lots of people are enjoying this, I'm sure none of this so far is new to anyone, but I'm enjoying the 'pressure' of a documented build, the need to keep working on it and not get distracted by something else.

If anyone has any pics or info on the inside trunk area on this car please do share. If not, I'll have to wing it.
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danno



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PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2012 8:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking great!!!
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Democar00



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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2012 12:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's the underhood structure built... with only a couple of necessary variations. I think it looks pretty good, and fits nice and tight and square.





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Democar00



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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2012 12:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

We can see the hood is too long. To be accurate, we'll cut it back to match the bumper contours and later, build a new grille and headlight covers.





And once cut and filed, looks much better.

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tubbs



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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2012 1:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is really looking good Demo.
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Democar00



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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2012 6:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks very much... its good to hear any and all comments, it keeps me motivated!
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Greengo



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PostPosted: Tue Jan 17, 2012 7:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You are doing a great job. What a great driver. Can't wait to see more.

Steve
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Democar00



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2012 5:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bored with fisheying tubing for 6 weeks, its time for something else.
Lets do wheels.
These are Monogram T-Bird, 5-holes, circa nearly forever. Other than painting them white, they're reasonably correct. We will, however, make em look way better in about 15 minutes.

This is the super hi tech sanding board I use. Three grits of stickits and a chunk of surplus plexi. The stickits are about 2 years old and still going strong.



A little circular motion, and we've thinned them down, but you dont want to go too far or you'll need a fifth one.



Just far enough and we can gently carve the holes open.



This is the right time to remind everyone to be careful with X-acto knives. I just reminded myself, carving the backs of the wheels. Its okay though, I'll be fine.
Mr.Trickle would light a cigarette and say 'get back to work, son, we have four features to make this week.'
There, doesnt this wheel look awesome?

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Democar00



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2012 5:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So here's where we are with the mockup... after cutting the wheelwells, which isnt worth pictures, front suspension taped together and radiator fudging, now we're starting to look like a Dick Trickle Mustang.
Just go ahead and imagine a little purple paint.



The engine is borrored from an AMT 67 Fairlane, basically tacked together with a little solvent, with the intake from the same kit as the body. Looks pretty wide, right? Lots of work to be done, stay tuned.

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tubbs



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PostPosted: Wed Jan 25, 2012 8:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The pics of the car in mock-up with the wheels...sure does look like his car. Great stuff Demo...I'm really enjoying your build..
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skeeter



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2012 3:26 am    Post subject: Yeah man...keep her going! Reply with quote

Thanks for posting us along with your build. Great tip on the wheels!
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Tom M.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2012 3:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great tutorial!

One question, I thought the Trickle Mustang used a Boss 351?
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Democar00



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 26, 2012 4:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys... your support inspired me to work some more on it last night... update coming soon. Its funny how the photo posting takes longer than building the model!

You're right Tom, he did use 351s, but in his early cars, from the 63 Ford through the Torino and earlier Mustangs, he ran 427s, only going to 351 Clevelands when he had to deal with a cubes to weight rule, plus, of course, the 427 parts dried up by the mid 70s.
My intention was to do a Mustang from around 72, with the big block, but I realize the reference photos I'm using are of a later car that may or may not have ever had a 427. Oh well, close enough for plastic, right?
Best guess, Dick's 427s had 428 cranks in them for 454 cubes, would have run medium riser heads on side oiler blocks. Thats Ford-speak for torque monster.
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Democar00



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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2012 1:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll be mounting wheels to the drums and front rotors I'm fabbing up, so we'll need some wheel inners.
This isnt hard to do. The wheel back from the same kit as the wheels and tires and the wheel back from the AMT kit that donated the chassis.



Sand em to the right size and glue em together... then they'll look like this.



Look pretty good, right? I think so.

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Democar00



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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2012 1:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lets tackle the rear suspension. Research shows that Dick used a quick change, which makes sense, since this car pounded pavement all over the place. We'll junk the Mustang kit's suspension, after using it for dimensions.



Here's what we need. A quick change center section from an AMT Craftsman truck kit, some 1/8" tube, drums I made and copied in resin, shock mount plates from a 60 Ford kit and various bits of plastic.



Here we are, all ready to assemble. No big deal right? This took me 2 weeks.



This was the right time to cut away the inner trunk and create clearance for the quick change. Now the assembled suspension looks good, is actually slightly springy and makes the wheels sit in the wheel wells just right.

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Dave Van



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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2012 2:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

We got to meet Trickle at the NASCAR Legends show in Mooresville a few weeks back. He looked good and was still with it. They had him sitting in front of a #99 Mustang Trickle tribute car (not a very good one) . The lady in line before me said 'they got you in front of your car'....Dick quickly responded 'THAT ain't MY car'!! Typical Trickle still to this day.
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Democar00



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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2012 2:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dick's pretty badass. I was a sorta fan of his from the minute he got to Nascar and smoked in the car. Ive never been a smoker, but I liked his old-schoolness.
Everyone once in awhile I google my own name to see what comes up. Not much, usually. But who knows, maybe old racers do the same, maybe Dick's watching this thread closely.
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genuine jack



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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 5:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

lookin' great , demo . i started on a trickle mustang years ago , but got stuck in a rut and haven't gotten back to it in a while . unfortunately i started with the MPC mustang , and learned a hard lesson , as the MPC is undersized , and it's difficult to get it low enough over the tires .
don't forget to remove the wipers and drill holes where the wiper drive came thru .
to answer a couple of questions that were asked :

to my knowledge the car never ran with multiple carbs , but dick told me that it occasionally ran with a 2-barrel carb - depending on what the local track rules were .
i believe dick did run with a 351 at times , but i believe he usually ran the big block - at least in '72 , when he set the record for most features won in a season . dick also told me he'd sometimes run a 427 with a 428 crank , which gave it something like 450 cubes - tho i can't remember to the "inch" .
dick also used a ford 3-speed truck trans . , as many other short track guys did .
keep it going - it's looking great ! thumbsup

jack
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Democar00



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PostPosted: Wed Apr 11, 2012 7:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey thanks… I'm still plugging away at it, lots of little things that don’t warrant an update. Soon though. I looked at the MPC body and thought it looked tiny. The Revell body is almost 1/24th I think, but that works fine considering I'm using 1/24th wheels on it. The body still has emblems and wipers and everything but I'll get to them soon.
I'll model it with a medium rise intake and a Holley center bowl carb, just struggling with engine mount fab right now, Twice, I've cut off what I started and gone back to square one.
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tubbs



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PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2012 10:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey there Matt....How's things going on this very good build? This is such a good subject and you're doing a great job on the WIP...I was just curious bud. Plus...It would be really cool to see it DOWN here in October...
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