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Pierre Rivard



Joined: 25 Feb 2021
Posts: 99
Location: Montreal, Canada

PostPosted: Tue Mar 23, 2021 7:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well thank you sir! I grew up in Quebec city speaking exclusively french. 40 years ago I took a summer job in Alberta and learned english "on the job"
I felt that learning english was essential to find good employment
Eventually I ended up working 35 years for GM splitting my time between Montreal, Toronto and Detroit.
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MarkJ



Joined: 29 Jan 2018
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 23, 2021 8:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pierre, I was able to find the Matt Varnish at the other H.L. They had 2 bottles left so I got them both. Hopefully it will give me the look I want. It should be great for tires too. Lately, I have had to put a dime over the wheels and spray the tires with testors dull cote. Which is really a lot of trouble. It will be so nice to be free of airbrushes and rattle cans. Oh, and I have plenty of old paint bottles and spray cans to make model holders for painting. I take it you double side tape to get the model to stay in place on the can top or bottle top.?
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MarkJ



Joined: 29 Jan 2018
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 24, 2021 5:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Put the matt varnish on. I might put a couple more coats on. Probably as good as its going to get. Time to move on to the interior and paint something bigger. That's not a hair by the left side webers, its a glue string caused by adding glue with a tooth pick and removing it . it creates a hair like string of glue. I didnt see it till I posted the picture. I will remove it with a tweezers before it gets installed. This engine didn't have a fan in case you thought I forgot it.

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Pierre Rivard



Joined: 25 Feb 2021
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Location: Montreal, Canada

PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2021 5:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That engine looks good. With a wash it would be perfect!!!
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MarkJ



Joined: 29 Jan 2018
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 28, 2021 8:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pierre Rivard wrote:
That engine looks good. With a wash it would be perfect!!!


What do you suggest for the wash? I need the bottles and how many drops each. Thanks, Pierre.
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Pierre Rivard



Joined: 25 Feb 2021
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Location: Montreal, Canada

PostPosted: Sun Mar 28, 2021 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mark,
I use Vallejo for washes. Just a few drops in the bottom palette and I use a small brush to apply it.
You can move it, re-wet with more wash easily or use a Q-tip to remove excess. It's very flexible.
Vallejo has tons of wash colors available. The 2 I use are:
76.523 European dust (lighter tone)
76.521 Oiled Earth (darker)
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MarkJ



Joined: 29 Jan 2018
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 28, 2021 4:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, Pierre. I will see if H.L. has them.
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MarkJ



Joined: 29 Jan 2018
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 04, 2021 6:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Painted the interior of my latest build . Took forever to get the right color but I finally realized I was looking at a silver blue color so I mixed 5 drops Vallejo silver with 3 drops dark blue one drop of blue at a time till the color matched my ref picture and I finally got the color I was looking for. I then added 8 drops of medium thinner . I had to do 2 coats for proper coverage. I will post pictures later. I wanted to paint something like the interior of this car before I did a body on my next project. I think I learned a lot about mixing. One thing I noticed was the drops are different from different bottles and sometimes a drop starts as a bubble before it becomes a drop so I dont know if my drops are all being the same. this is important because you have to mix the paint twice for two coats so you want the color to be the same each time. Maybe I was not shaking the bottles long enough to get the right consistency of paint. Hopefully Pierre can weigh in on this if you see this, Pierre.
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Firefly



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
Posts: 648
Location: New Jersey

PostPosted: Sun Apr 04, 2021 1:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarkJ wrote:
...I think I learned a lot about mixing. One thing I noticed was the drops are different from different bottles and sometimes a drop starts as a bubble before it becomes a drop so I dont know if my drops are all being the same. this is important because you have to mix the paint twice for two coats so you want the color to be the same each time. .. Hopefully Pierre can weigh in on this if you see this, Pierre.


Exactly what I am dealing with now trying to mix a Bud Moore blue. I'm thinking mixing a huge batch and bottling it somehow to get the total amount needed.
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MarkJ



Joined: 29 Jan 2018
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 04, 2021 1:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Firefly wrote:
MarkJ wrote:
...I think I learned a lot about mixing. One thing I noticed was the drops are different from different bottles and sometimes a drop starts as a bubble before it becomes a drop so I dont know if my drops are all being the same. this is important because you have to mix the paint twice for two coats so you want the color to be the same each time. .. Hopefully Pierre can weigh in on this if you see this, Pierre.


Exactly what I am dealing with now trying to mix a Bud Moore blue. I'm thinking mixing a huge batch and bottling it somehow to get the total amount needed.


Sounds like a plan, Bill. But how do you know how much you will need?
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Firefly



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
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Location: New Jersey

PostPosted: Sun Apr 04, 2021 2:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarkJ wrote:
Firefly wrote:
MarkJ wrote:
...I think I learned a lot about mixing. One thing I noticed was the drops are different from different bottles and sometimes a drop starts as a bubble before it becomes a drop so I dont know if my drops are all being the same. this is important because you have to mix the paint twice for two coats so you want the color to be the same each time. .. Hopefully Pierre can weigh in on this if you see this, Pierre.


Exactly what I am dealing with now trying to mix a Bud Moore blue. I'm thinking mixing a huge batch and bottling it somehow to get the total amount needed.


Sounds like a plan, Bill. But how do you know how much you will need?


I've coated out-of-the-bottle full body coats with white, so that usage gives a ballpark idea...the other issue with acrylics is the color shift wet-to-dry, So you can't mix a new batch by matching to a dry sample.
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Pierre Rivard



Joined: 25 Feb 2021
Posts: 99
Location: Montreal, Canada

PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 2021 7:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Firefly wrote:
MarkJ wrote:
Firefly wrote:
MarkJ wrote:
...I think I learned a lot about mixing. One thing I noticed was the drops are different from different bottles and sometimes a drop starts as a bubble before it becomes a drop so I dont know if my drops are all being the same. this is important because you have to mix the paint twice for two coats so you want the color to be the same each time. .. Hopefully Pierre can weigh in on this if you see this, Pierre.


Exactly what I am dealing with now trying to mix a Bud Moore blue. I'm thinking mixing a huge batch and bottling it somehow to get the total amount needed.


Sounds like a plan, Bill. But how do you know how much you will need?



I've coated out-of-the-bottle full body coats with white, so that usage gives a ballpark idea...the other issue with acrylics is the color shift wet-to-dry, So you can't mix a new batch by matching to a dry sample.


My take on it guys:
1- after shaking the bottle sometimes a bubble comes out first. I purge that out on a piece of paper and start the mixing when a get good clean drops.
2- I never mix large quantities. Acrylics thicken quickly which affects flow when painting. I mix 1 coat at a time and throw away what's left. I have not seen color variation issues coat to coat.
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MarkJ



Joined: 29 Jan 2018
Posts: 683

PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 2021 8:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pierre Rivard wrote:
Firefly wrote:
MarkJ wrote:
Firefly wrote:
MarkJ wrote:
...I think I learned a lot about mixing. One thing I noticed was the drops are different from different bottles and sometimes a drop starts as a bubble before it becomes a drop so I dont know if my drops are all being the same. this is important because you have to mix the paint twice for two coats so you want the color to be the same each time. .. Hopefully Pierre can weigh in on this if you see this, Pierre.


Exactly what I am dealing with now trying to mix a Bud Moore blue. I'm thinking mixing a huge batch and bottling it somehow to get the total amount needed.


Sounds like a plan, Bill. But how do you know how much you will need?



I've coated out-of-the-bottle full body coats with white, so that usage gives a ballpark idea...the other issue with acrylics is the color shift wet-to-dry, So you can't mix a new batch by matching to a dry sample.


My take on it guys:
1- after shaking the bottle sometimes a bubble comes out first. I purge that out on a piece of paper and start the mixing when a get good clean drops.
2- I never mix large quantities. Acrylics thicken quickly which affects flow when painting. I mix 1 coat at a time and throw away what's left. I have not seen color variation issues coat to coat.


Thanks, Pierre. I never thought of the paper trick. I was trying to pop the bubbles with a toothpick as they came out of the bottle. Also you are right about the acrylic not having a long shelf life after mixing. And I have mixed the blue many times that I'm using for the interior and its come out the same every time. I really like the practice of using the pallette and painting from it. I just need to get better at choosing the right colors to begin with when trying to get to a color I need . I guess that will eventually come with practice.
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Pierre Rivard



Joined: 25 Feb 2021
Posts: 99
Location: Montreal, Canada

PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 2021 12:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Developing the right mix of colors is a bit of trial and error process but fun. Here is what I do.
I do multiple variations on note cards. For these I don't use the medium thinner because I don't care about a smooth finish.
Quick mix of 2-3 drops, splash on a thick coat, try the next variations and on.
This way I can quick test and compare 5 or 6 variations in a matter of minutes.
[url[/url]
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MarkJ



Joined: 29 Jan 2018
Posts: 683

PostPosted: Tue Apr 06, 2021 8:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pierre Rivard wrote:
Developing the right mix of colors is a bit of trial and error process but fun. Here is what I do.
I do multiple variations on note cards. For these I don't use the medium thinner because I don't care about a smooth finish.
Quick mix of 2-3 drops, splash on a thick coat, try the next variations and on.
This way I can quick test and compare 5 or 6 variations in a matter of minutes.
[url[/url]


Thats a great idea, Pierre. And you will always have them for reference close at hand. I need to get some note cards and a box to keep them in.
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Firefly



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
Posts: 648
Location: New Jersey

PostPosted: Fri Apr 23, 2021 11:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

First try at brush painting. (Decaling in progress now.) The Tamiya white settles smooth and glossy. I did not thin enough and got some brush marks. However, the acrylic paint dries really hard and polishes nicely with sanding pads.
The blue is Badger AirOpaque 2:1 White and blue. These paints are made for airbrush - so they are fairly thin from the bottle. I have had the Badger paints for over 30 years - still perform great.





I have to admit some streaks and lumps are from my sanding and filling of the bodywork.
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MarkJ



Joined: 29 Jan 2018
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 23, 2021 3:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Firefly wrote:
First try at brush painting. (Decaling in progress now.) The Tamiya white settles smooth and glossy. I did not thin enough and got some brush marks. However, the acrylic paint dries really hard and polishes nicely with sanding pads.
The blue is Badger AirOpaque 2:1 White and blue. These paints are made for airbrush - so they are fairly thin from the bottle. I have had the Badger paints for over 30 years - still perform great.





I have to admit some streaks and lumps are from my sanding and filling of the bodywork.


Wow , Bill. That turned out awesome. Better then most rattle can or air brush jobs I have seen on here lately. I cant wait to do my first body with the brush and acrylic paint. Hoping it turns out as good as yours.
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Pierre Rivard



Joined: 25 Feb 2021
Posts: 99
Location: Montreal, Canada

PostPosted: Fri Apr 23, 2021 4:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bill,
I am impressed with your result using Tamiya. Much better than my results with this brand.
The problem I had was the hot behavior of this paint. The first color coat was smooth but as I went for the second coat I was running after my tail chasing coverage at the expense of smoothness.
I tried reducing with their thinner, water, IPA in various combinations but ultimately failed.
Congratulations for figuring out how to brush paint with Tamiya acrylics
..applause
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Firefly



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
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Location: New Jersey

PostPosted: Fri Apr 23, 2021 5:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pierre Rivard wrote:
Bill,

The problem I had was the hot behavior of this paint. ...


Yes - the hot nature is also an issue when contacting a less hot brand. When brushing a coat of Tamiya Clear over the Badger blue (which is matte finish). I had to be careful not to scrub away the blue. Touching up white over blue mask-bleed spots also dissolved the blue.

Observations: The Tamiya went on well with a wet heavy coat - settled nice and glossy. I rotated the body for a couple of minutes after brushing to avoid runs.

It dries so quickly out of the bottle though. If you have skills brushing Future, those moves are pretty much what you need to use here.

I was impressed with how hard a finish you get with acrylics. The paint does polish to a nice shine.

Thanks for the compliments!
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Pierre Rivard



Joined: 25 Feb 2021
Posts: 99
Location: Montreal, Canada

PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2021 7:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Firefly wrote:
Pierre Rivard wrote:
Bill,

The problem I had was the hot behavior of this paint. ...


Yes - the hot nature is also an issue when contacting a less hot brand. When brushing a coat of Tamiya Clear over the Badger blue (which is matte finish). I had to be careful not to scrub away the blue. Touching up white over blue mask-bleed spots also dissolved the blue.

Observations: The Tamiya went on well with a wet heavy coat - settled nice and glossy. I rotated the body for a couple of minutes after brushing to avoid runs.

It dries so quickly out of the bottle though. If you have skills brushing Future, those moves are pretty much what you need to use here.

I was impressed with how hard a finish you get with acrylics. The paint does polish to a nice shine.

Thanks for the compliments!


I think I understand how you are making this work better than I did.
Back then I was not priming my bodies leading to a need for multiple color coats, challenging with a hot paint that bites into it's previous layers
So assuming the body has been primed white, 1 thick coat of Tamiya color would suffice?
Any advice on thinning mediums, if any used?
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Firefly



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
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Location: New Jersey

PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2021 10:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pierre Rivard wrote:

So assuming the body has been primed white, 1 thick coat of Tamiya color would suffice?
Any advice on thinning mediums, if any used?


White over white primer is an optimal scenario for certain. And the acrylic covers the lacquer primer nicely. As far as process, I think 'shaken, not stirred' might be best way to describe how this happened. I simply shook the Tamiya bottle for the first coat - and it went down smooth. On a following coat, in which I stirred the paint, the thicker nature was making more brush marks.
More of an observation than a scientific method!

On this other body, it got two coats over white primer. Have not polished this one yet.

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MarkJ



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PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2021 8:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Firefly wrote:
Pierre Rivard wrote:

So assuming the body has been primed white, 1 thick coat of Tamiya color would suffice?
Any advice on thinning mediums, if any used?


White over white primer is an optimal scenario for certain. And the acrylic covers the lacquer primer nicely. As far as process, I think 'shaken, not stirred' might be best way to describe how this happened. I simply shook the Tamiya bottle for the first coat - and it went down smooth. On a following coat, in which I stirred the paint, the thicker nature was making more brush marks.
More of an observation than a scientific method!

On this other body, it got two coats over white primer. Have not polished this one yet.


Wow, Bill. If you got that result without polishing , do you think you actually have to? those are some amazing results with a brush for sure. And just think, you didn't have to spray under a booth or wait for good weather outside to do it. That's the main reason I hope I can get half the results you and Pierre are getting. I can paint anytime I want to without worrying about the weather or setting up my airbrush and then having to clean it. All of these are things I dont like about model building. And now I dont have to try to match a color in a bottle to what I need . I can just mix it in the pallette till it matches.
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AndyS



Joined: 30 Jan 2019
Posts: 34

PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2021 3:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Firefly wrote:
Pierre Rivard wrote:

So assuming the body has been primed white, 1 thick coat of Tamiya color would suffice?
Any advice on thinning mediums, if any used?


White over white primer is an optimal scenario for certain. And the acrylic covers the lacquer primer nicely. As far as process, I think 'shaken, not stirred' might be best way to describe how this happened. I simply shook the Tamiya bottle for the first coat - and it went down smooth. On a following coat, in which I stirred the paint, the thicker nature was making more brush marks.
More of an observation than a scientific method!

On this other body, it got two coats over white primer. Have not polished this one yet.


Nice paint jobs from everyone, this really would make it possible to paint indoors and in all seasons.

Bill (Firefly), You mention white over white primer, which white lacquer primer did you use? Tamiya white primer or something else?

Also, Tamiya makes an acrylic paint retarder (Tamiya USA TAM87114 Paint Retarder (Acrylic) 40Ml) which is supposed to slow down the drying rate on the water-based acrylic paints and make it easier to get brushstroke-free paint jobs. I saw it mentioned in a youtube video on brush painting.

Has anybody tried this retarder with the Tamiya acrylic brush paints? Does it make a smooth finish easier?

https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-America-Retarder-Acrylic-TAM87114/dp/B002TZVZE4


Last edited by AndyS on Mon Apr 26, 2021 4:14 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Firefly



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
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Location: New Jersey

PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2021 8:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

AndyS wrote:


Bill (Firefly), You mention white over white primer, which white lacquer primer did you use? Tamiya white primer or something else?

Also, Tamiya makes an acrylic paint retarder (Tamiya USA TAM87114 Paint Retarder (Acrylic) 40Ml) which is supposed to slow down the drying rate on the water-based acrylic paints and make it easier to get brushstroke-free paint jobs. I saw it mentioned in a youtube video on brush painting.

Has anybody tried this retarder with the Tamiya acrylic brush paints? Does it a smooth finish easier?


The white primer is Tamiya spray lacquer.

I have the Tamiya Retarder and have used it on matte military schemes when mixing very small amounts of paint that I did not want to dry out in the mixing process. It works really well. Did not use it on these bodies, but I would not hesitate to try it.
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