Randy Ayers Nascar Modeling Forums

[MarkJ]

[Pierre Rivard]

So I lite the primer cure for 24 hours...less than the 2-3 days I was planning.
It is smooth but not perfect, so I gently wet sanded with 6000, then 8000 and finally 12000 pads.

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I then brushed on the black base. 8 drops paint, 8 medium thinner and 2 water.
It went on very smooth, only one coat did the job over the dark primer.
Very smooth so no plan to polish.
I will let it sit for 2 days before brushing on the Future

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"When you arrive at a fork in the road, take it" - Yogi Berra

[MarkJ]

Looks great , Pierre. Looking forward to seeing the future on it. I have a few black cars planned for the future. No pun intended.

[MarkJ]

I finally got all 3 coats of yellow on it, but from the pictures you can hardly tell that its yellow. Believe me it looks yellow in real life. I'm real pleased with the results. Just a few very small errors in the paint that I might try to smooth over a bit before I add either a vallejo clear to polish or just some future to say its done.

[Pierre Rivard]

Very cool Mark. The car looks great!
I'm super happy to see your progress on experimenting with brush painting.
I look forward to your decision on clear material as I am wondering if I should also try the Vallejo varnish to improve the ability to polish.
Vallejo site recommends thinning their varnish with airbrush thinner 71.161, not water.
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"When you arrive at a fork in the road, take it" - Yogi Berra

[MarkJ]

[MarkJ]

Pierre, I decided to follow your lead and polish with 6000,8000, and 12000 grit sanding cloths but I went through to primer in a couple of spots, so I added another coat of paint. This time I added one more drop of yellow in the mix which was, 10 drops of white, 2 drops of yellow, 12 drops of medium thinner, and 2 drops of distilled water. It was much more yellow in real life but the photos don't show how actually yellow it is. It matches my reference photos even better though, so I'm sticking with it. I use a lot more light when photographing the finished pictures of the model and I think the color should show up better on those photos. The polishing did not improve the overall smoothness of the paint that much , so I believe I will just future what I have now and it should look okay. If not I can always remove the future and add some clear that I can polish and see if I get a more mirror like appearance before I add another coat of future. Trouble is the layers are starting to get a little thick so I hope the future on what I have now will give me enough gloss to be satisfied.

[Pierre Rivard]

That yellow Camaro looks smooth and so very nice.
I look forward to your feedback of the result of Future over the acrylic base color.
This is where I typically hit a bit of a soft stop in smoothness, i.e. a bit of grainy appearance. Nothing major but something I want to improve on my builds.
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"When you arrive at a fork in the road, take it" - Yogi Berra

[MarkJ]

[Pierre Rivard]

[MarkJ]

[MarkJ]

Pierre, I did one coat of Model Masters clear gloss acryl, un thinned. It went on pretty smooth but did have some light brush marks that I hope will go away with the 8000 and 12000 sanding cloths. I think after that process the future will give me that final gloss I'm looking for. The only problem I have using the Model Masters is that I heard they were going out of business, so I will have to find another source for gloss clear acryl from another company. I'm not sure if Vallajo sells a glossy clear or varnish.

[Pierre Rivard]

Mark, I think you are on with the idea of a more robust (polishable) clear layer before finishing off with Future
I went to my hobby store but they're out of Vallejo gloss so I got some Tamiya X-22 clear and X-20A thinner to try out.
I'm gonna play it safe with test cards (working out a few thinning ratio variations) before risking it on the black test body.
Could be an alternative for the out of production Model Master stuff.
I hope to have something to share in 2 days or so.
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"When you arrive at a fork in the road, take it" - Yogi Berra

[MarkJ]

[jchrisf]

[MarkJ]

[MarkJ]

Pierre, I finally got the body finished from the sanding with 8000 and 12000 grit paper, so I went ahead and brush painted one coat of pledge/future on it. I was more then pleased with the results. Smooth as any model I ever did spraying with rattle can or airbrush. I also found some small bottles to store testors or tamiya paint in, so I can drop them in a pallette to mix them for better use of those two products. The pictures really don't show how nice the results really came out. Like I said, I'm very pleased with this brush painting concept and will continue to use it from now on. Thanks for all your help in this endeavor.

[jchrisf]

Wow Mark.. that looks smooth and shiny.

[Pierre Rivard]

Mark,

I am so happy to see your results. Impressive what you achieved on your first build with brushes. It took me a lot more time to work things out.

Thanks for sharing how to handled polishing of the MM clear. I am reaching that stage with my test coupons cleared with Tamiya. I will mimic what you are doing.

Again congrats, great job and I am happy I could help a tiny bit by sharing some of the stuff I have been testing out.
_________________
"When you arrive at a fork in the road, take it" - Yogi Berra

[MarkJ]

[MarkJ]

[Dan Belcher]

Beautiful work, Mark. I'm impressed!

[MarkJ]

[Pierre Rivard]

Final phase of my black body test.
Usually I use Future for my clear. Easy to apply but not so to polish and I want to polish to eliminate the fine base coat texture showing through.
Following Mark's lead to apply an intermediate acrylic clear which would be polishable I went on a search for materials.
Turns out the only one that was available at my hobby store was the Tamiya X-22.
Before hitting the body I did multiple test coupons to figure out how to thin and brush the Tamiya clear.
I settled on a 4-1-1 ratio of X22 clear, X20A thinner and water.
It is brushable but not easy.
I ordered some Tamiya retarder which I plan to integrate in the process eventually
So I went on and brushed the body (without the retarder), waited 24 hours and polished it with Alpha Abrasives cloths 6000, 8000 and 12000
I realized this clear is hard and polishable, very good.
I will improve my polishing skills as I see some areas could take more. I went harder on the roof and it came out great.
After polishing I brushed a layer of Future. Normally this is when I would decal and then seal with a second coat of Future.
This body only has the first coat. I am quite pleased knowing I will keep improving the process but this is already a good step up from previous builds.

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"When you arrive at a fork in the road, take it" - Yogi Berra

[MarkJ]

Looking awesome , Pierre. You can tell the roof has the sharp edged light source reflections in it that shows the mirror like quality you ended up with from a brush painted project. This is very helpful. Thank you for posting this study.

[Firefly]

Well, I'v got these two finished up. Off to the Showroom...


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Bill Jobson is my real name.

[MarkJ]

Wow, Bill . you knocked both of those right out of the park. No one would ever imagine that you brush painted them unless you told them.

[Pierre Rivard]

Bill, these 2 Fords are very beautiful.
As I recall you used Tamiya. Wondering how you managed the post painting process. Any polishing of the color coat?
What did you use for clear, brush applied, polished?
Thanks for sharing
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"When you arrive at a fork in the road, take it" - Yogi Berra

[Firefly]

[Pierre Rivard]

[MarkJ]

If you want a way to chrome your parts, this is a pen you might want to try. It is an oil based opaque metallic pen that is not fragile like the alcohol based chrome pens. Let it dry for 48 hours and it is hard as a rock and takes future perfectly to make it even more Chromy looking. it might not start out as Chromy as the alcohol based pens but it is not fragile at all like they are. You can also dab it in a palette and make it run to make a puddle and then use a brush to apply it if you want. It does not dry as quickly as the alcohol pens so you have time to work with it. Hobby Lobby sells them in the paint pen section where the sharpies are. Shown are the bumpers and grille I made for my latest build that has the stuff on them. You don't have to prime the plastic either and you can also use it right on the paint of a model for windshield moldings or door handles.

[Pierre Rivard]

Thanks mark, this is wonderful. I don't see these available in Canada but I am ordering some from the US through Amazon.
Perhaps not for my current project but it gives me a good option for the future.
Thanks for the help!
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"When you arrive at a fork in the road, take it" - Yogi Berra

[Pierre Rivard]

This is a new experiment. Success or failure, I will share the results on my efforts to develop a method for replicating a heavily rusted body using only brushes and sponges.
The car I will try to replicate this car with my new project but here I will only show the body paint work.

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Work on the body required mixing up a 68 Charger with a Daytona front clip.
The first painting steps was doing the body inside with a light brown primer, then the rust surface with a brush and dabbing it with a sponge.
For rust I use Vallejo Rust 73.821 and mix it up with a variety of base coat colors. Usually light colors like light brown, orange or some reds. Depends on what tone of rust I want for a specific area.

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Then I proceeded with body primer. Light gray for the front clip and a mix of panzer yellow/white for the rest of the body.
I had previously cut through the lower door skins where I plan to show rust through effects.

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The next step was to apply the base coat colors that will provide the background to the weathering layers. Mixing my own tones of grays, yellows, blue and light brown and dabbing it on.
It does reasonably match the patterns seen on my reference pictures

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Only a few small decals which will need to be "weathered in"
I do not have a decal for the front fender so I just penciled it in. It's almost completely faded on the real car so maybe this will be good enough.

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I have not figured out the next steps but I will provide an update when I have completed all the weathering layers
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"When you arrive at a fork in the road, take it" - Yogi Berra

[afx]

Challenging project - watching with interest.

[MarkJ]

Wow, Pierre. This is going to be great. I don't think I've ever seen a heavily weathered Nascar race car modeled before.

[Pierre Rivard]

Thanks for your interest guys. This is definitely a different kind of project.
The body is a challenge but the chassis more so with the severe corrosion damage.

_________________
"When you arrive at a fork in the road, take it" - Yogi Berra

[Pierre Rivard]

Starting the weathering stages. Here are the products I plan to use

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First I did a wash on the whole body
Next I applied my rust texture mixed with light brown on the roof, deck and front clip, leaving out doors and quarter panels for now.
I like the effect but a second layer will be required

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From there things got a bit sideways
I wanted to create rust streaks on the body sides before applying the rust layer.
Trying this with the streaking grime product...and clearly overdid it or at least the method for doing it is not satisfactory

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You can see on the next close up shot it does not look realistic.
I'm making this up as I go so live and learn. I'll have to find a way to remove or cover up that stuff.

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"When you arrive at a fork in the road, take it" - Yogi Berra

[Pierre Rivard]

Today I took on the task to patch up the yellow paint dabbing on diluted paint over and over to tone down and mostly mask these poorly done rust streaks.
I started putting rust texture on the body sides and tested a new way to simulate streaks.
I used the orange rust from the Tamiya weathering master C and slowly built it on the test area using the little "make up" style applicator.
Still a way to go but looks more realistic in my opinion

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"When you arrive at a fork in the road, take it" - Yogi Berra

[MarkJ]

Looks perfect to me. How did you get the faded letters on the front fender? Thats really impressive. This is going to look like a 1:1 car when you get through.

[Pierre Rivard]

[Pierre Rivard]

I completed this study just in time before celebrations begin.
The final steps involving more rust texture touch ups and some work with Tamiya weathering orange rust from their master C.
This paint study took about 15-20 hours over a 6 day period.
Happy holidays and stay safe!

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_________________
"When you arrive at a fork in the road, take it" - Yogi Berra

[MarkJ]

Again, some fabulous work going on here.

[Firefly]

This is SO GOOD!!! Rusty, weathered models give the impression of real metal so well, and that is what appeals to me.
_________________
Bill Jobson is my real name.

[Pierre Rivard]

Thanks guys for the nice feedback. At first I was a bit scared to try this but in the end had so much fun with it. I love trying new stuff so if you have suggestions...
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"When you arrive at a fork in the road, take it" - Yogi Berra

[MarkJ]

Here's my firsrt totally brush painted model. I got the primer a little too thick right from the beginning which caused a lot of detail to dissapear. I will try to do better on the next one which will be a 3 tone paint job.

[Pierre Rivard]

SSSWWWEEEET!
I know you put a huge amount of work into this one and it came out great.
Your first brush painted project is a total success and on top of that this heavily modified body is so cool.
Love the photo setup!
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"When you arrive at a fork in the road, take it" - Yogi Berra

[MarkJ]

[Dan Belcher]

Smooth and shiny! Looks great.

[MarkJ]

[naskoalcar]

I traveled the post of Pierre Rivard 'The Brush Painters Society' but his messages stopped in February 2022,
do you know if he is still on the forum or another?
Thank you for info