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1/25 '69 Dodge Charger Daytona #55---Revell Pro Modeler
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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Tue Jan 07, 2020 10:56 pm    Post subject: 1/25 '69 Dodge Charger Daytona #55---Revell Pro Modeler Reply with quote

Just started tonight. I have the block assembled. I am not going over
the top and super politically correct on this. Mostly OOB with a few corrections. I am using Mike's Decals for Tiny Lund's #55 Baughman
ride in 1969.---John



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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Wed Jan 08, 2020 3:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just dechromed a few engine parts. I'll add the valve covers then spray the
block and assembled parts orange.---John


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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 09, 2020 12:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The block was sprayed Tamiya orange and the transmission Tamiya
gloss aluminum.---John

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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 10, 2020 2:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The engine block and transmission are done and painted. The decals came in today.---John

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MarkJ



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 10, 2020 2:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Should be great. What color blue are you using?
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Mack



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 10, 2020 4:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's going to be a beautiful build. That car looks great as a standard 69 Charger

https://www.pinterest.com/pin/809170258019673204/
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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 10, 2020 9:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The decal sheet calls for metallic blue, I strictly use rattle cans, prefer Tamiya so I will look and see what's close. I may add on to the roll cage to make it more "authentic". I have seen on another car site where someone went all out on Buddy Baker's 69 Daytona and did the full cage and engine compartment. I am not going that far, will use Revell's NASCAR wheels instead of PPP replacements. Does anyone know what color the chassis was and the car interior? I am guessing the car interior was same blue as body was and roll bars black maybe?---John
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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Wed Jan 15, 2020 12:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have the engine done, the air cleaner is just set on and not glued.
I am using Tamiya mica blue for the color, I'm still trying to find pictures
of the interior color but have pretty much given up and will do the
interior the same color as the body. I wasn't impressed with the PE
fan on the engine, looks like fake cardboard to me.---John

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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Wed Jan 15, 2020 6:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm starting the interior. I cut the arm rests off the door panels and am sanding the rest of the detail off. Then I can fill the holes left from the missing arm rests, sand those then assemble the interior sides and firewall
and paint that mica blue. I then need to paint the roll cage parts and make
the extra bars to make it look more accurate from the outside. More or less doing a "curb model".---John

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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 16, 2020 6:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wasn't happy with the roll bar in back of the drives seat so I cut the fire extinguisher off and then cut the center angular support out. I re attached the center piece and need to add a piece below it. I'll put the fire extinguisher on the floor pan next to the drivers seat right side. I need to order some plastic 1/8 inch diameter rod to fab up the bars I need for the side of the cage that goes from the rear roll bar to the dash board area.---John

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Mack



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 16, 2020 7:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks great thus far. Keep the updates coming. Very Happy
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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 17, 2020 11:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, I have the interior tub built and painted. I should have primered as the Tamiya mica paints are almost clear or like a pearl color I will definitely
prime the body and chassis. Waiting for the order to arrive with the gray primer and .100" diameter rods for the roll cage.---John

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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 17, 2020 5:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like the PE switches and instrument bezels on the dash, stands out good with the instrument decal.---John


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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Sat Jan 18, 2020 1:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am about as far as I can go with the interior until the rods come in for the roll cage.---John

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sentsat71



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PostPosted: Sat Jan 18, 2020 7:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

WOW!! Looking good!!
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AdamtheWayne



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 24, 2020 12:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very sharp! I wish I'd been paying attention, I just made the trip to Hobby Lobby. I could have picked up the rod you need and sent it out. Can't wait to see your cage build. Rock on. Smile
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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 24, 2020 3:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, I go to Hobby Lobby up the road all the time but needed
Tamiya paint so I ordered both from long time supplier of mine.
I just got the primer and rod in, drew up a sketch and now have
some proto types made. Guess all that pipe fitting I learned in
vocational high school and welding for 42 years paid off.---John

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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 24, 2020 3:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The good old days of pipe rail welding...me many years ago.---John

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AdamtheWayne



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 24, 2020 3:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looking good. I like the blue too, looks like a good choice.
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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 24, 2020 4:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, it's not going to be 100% accurate but I want it close even for a curb
model. I am still debating cutting out the fender wells but if I keep it with the
hood closed then why? I really don't want to build a cage for the engine compartment or accurize the gas tank, some things are not necessary for
this build. If it was to be a contest car then yes I definitely would.---John
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AdamtheWayne



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 24, 2020 4:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd just leave them in a curbside. The less you cut away the more stable it remains. I shudder to think how weak mine is after using basically a butt joint for my fender swap.
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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 24, 2020 5:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's what I was thinking also. More roll cage work, top front bar in,
think I may need to move it a bit to line up with "wing window" pillars.
It's still removeable.---John



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john843



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 24, 2020 8:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

beautiful job on the interior and cage. The dash and gauge panel look perfect. Yeah, I'd say your pipe fitting past is serving your model building present very well:) I was telling a friend of mine recently who has just married a retired welder that I felt confident that she was in good hands because it's been my experience that old welder/pipe fitters can build or fix ANYTHING, usually stronger or better than before.

John
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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 24, 2020 10:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, almost there. It's finally looking busy.---John


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retroguy



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PostPosted: Sat Jan 25, 2020 5:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like the toggle switch pe,where did you find them...
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john843



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PostPosted: Sat Jan 25, 2020 6:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

retroguy wrote:
I like the toggle switch pe,where did you find them...



A PE tree comes with the Pro-Modeler Daytona.(or at least did with the original run , haven't bought any of the re-releases) It has the front grille piece (which has to be bent into a vee), the gauge panel, switch panel and switches, hood pins and leashes, Charger and Hemi scripts for the street version and maybe another item or two.

John
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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Sat Jan 25, 2020 8:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yup, right on....all PE came with the current kit.---John
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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Tue Jan 28, 2020 2:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I got my Tamiya gray surface primer today and tried it on the chassis. I like the way it covers, ready to do the chassis blue then on to more building.---John

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MarkJ



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PostPosted: Tue Jan 28, 2020 9:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like those wheel openings are going to need to be enlarged a bit? Maybe i'm just not looking at it correctly.
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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Tue Jan 28, 2020 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, I have to check out the kits NASCAR tires to see if I need to enlarge them. I know you do for after market politically correct tires but I am not going that route.---John
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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Wed Jan 29, 2020 5:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The chassis is painted, now to do assembly.---John

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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 30, 2020 1:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The engine is installed. Next is the suspension and rear drive train.---John

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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 30, 2020 7:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Front suspension, steering and axels done.---John

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Firefly



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 31, 2020 9:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarkJ wrote:
Looks like those wheel openings are going to need to be enlarged a bit? Maybe i'm just not looking at it correctly.


Gotta agree...

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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Fri Jan 31, 2020 11:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JWVD5953 wrote:
Thanks, I have to check out the kits NASCAR tires to see if I need to enlarge them. I know you do for after market politically correct tires but I am not going that route.---John

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Firefly



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PostPosted: Sat Feb 01, 2020 5:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JWVD5953 wrote:
JWVD5953 wrote:
Thanks, I have to check out the kits NASCAR tires to see if I need to enlarge them. I know you do for after market politically correct tires but I am not going that route.---John


You probably don't need to enlarge the circumference of the wheel opening, just maybe round it up top so it just clears the tire. Before you do anything, you should test fit the wheel and tire on the chassis and see how the body sits over that.
Rear opening probably could be left alone.
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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Sat Feb 01, 2020 6:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well in my 55 years of building models I have to agree as that is exactly what I was doing. The body won't fit over the chassis, seems as though the right shock or shock tower is hanging up. Also I noticed a bow in the frame
about midway between the area where the gas pedal goes to the rear seat area, see second image below. I'm not sure if you can see the hung up shock in the first image. This officially goes on the shelf so I can step back and look at the overall picture. I haven't had this much fun since I built Dale Jarrett's '97 T Bird with the twisted body. The area in front of the A arm area also to me looks twisted, see image three.---John



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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Sat Feb 01, 2020 6:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just preformed a partial wheel wellectomy. The body goes on but something still is not right. There is a twist somewhere.---John


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 02, 2020 12:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I cut all but approximately 5mm of the wheel well out of the body. I left 5 mm on either side near the radiator to "set the depth" when I set the body on the chassis, sort of a stop. I hope there is some method to my madness. Untill I figure out what to do with the bow in the frame and twist in the chassis forward of the A frames I will set this aside and continue on a more fun and less stressful build-Mark Martins' '94 T Bird.---John

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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 04, 2020 12:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tried getting the bow out of the chassis frame, some came out but I'll have to live with what little is left. As for the A frame twist "it is what it is". It's probably molded in and once the nose is on it won't be that noticeable. I am assembling the wheels to test the wheel well clearance.---John

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AdamtheWayne



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 04, 2020 1:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The bow in the midsection should go away if you glue the four corners of the driver's tub and clamp it or use rubber bands. The twist in the forward frame will work itself out as soon as you get the inner fender's seated against the frame rails. Use Gorilla glue or similar super glue. A gap filler would work and would normally be my go to because it can be used as a styrene softener but it's too easy for parts to shift because it sets so slowly.
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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 04, 2020 2:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, I like the interior tub to chassis idea. Sounds very reasonable and a definite can do for my talents.---John
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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 04, 2020 2:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This seems to work good also. LOL---John

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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 04, 2020 5:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wheels and tub in, chassis on body. Looks good according to the real deal picture below.---John





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Mack



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 04, 2020 8:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

https://archive.petersen.org/pages/view.php?search=%21collection2171+&k=&modal=&display=xlthumbs&order_by=relevance&offset=816&per_page=48&archive=&sort=DESC&restypes=&recentdaylimit=&foredit=&ref=402012

Finally found a pic of his 69 standard Charger.
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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Wed Feb 05, 2020 11:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I put some glue on the tub then super glue around the perimeter in a few spots and weighted it down overnight with a cigar box full of clamps, wire spools, clothes pins, straws and general modeling junk to weight it down overnight. Looks flat now.---John


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AdamtheWayne



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PostPosted: Wed Feb 05, 2020 11:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

JWVD5953 wrote:
I put some glue on the tub then super glue around the perimeter in a few spots and weighted it down overnight with a cigar box full of clamps, wire spools, clothes pins, straws and general modeling junk to weight it down overnight. Looks flat now.---John

Ummm… okay. Next time? Next time maybe try taking the clamps and clothespins OUT of the cigar box... and use them? Wink
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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Wed Feb 05, 2020 12:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why? It works for me doesn't it? An old welders trick of using weight, sorry you can't see the method to my madness.---John
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 05, 2020 1:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

JWVD5953 wrote:
Why? It works for me doesn't it? An old welders trick of using weight, sorry you can't see the method to my madness.---John
Fair dues! Laughing
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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2020 2:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Body painted.---John

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