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Bill Elliot's 1996 McDonald's Thunderbird 1/24 Revell kit

 
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JWVD5953



Joined: 06 Nov 2018
Posts: 365
Location: Florida

PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2018 3:30 pm    Post subject: Bill Elliot's 1996 McDonald's Thunderbird 1/24 Revell kit Reply with quote

I am going to give this a shot. First thing is to straighten the body.
It sets flat except for the left front from the rear door pillar to the
headlights. I am going to try very hot water and a twisting motion.
I'm not sure I can get it all out but would like to get it so it's useable.---John





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JWVD5953



Joined: 06 Nov 2018
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2018 10:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

After several applications of hot water and twisting I finally
am making progress. The difference between the right and left
fenders at the headlights was 10mm, it's now down to 4 mm.
A few more sessions and I hope it will be close enough. What
I noticed is the left side seemed to be further forward than the
right side. I did get some actual building done. I built the engine
block, heads and oil pan and sprayed them an aluminum color.---John


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Mack



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 24, 2018 10:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

that is one warped body! I wonder what caused that in that generation of Revell kits?
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"Fireball"



Joined: 09 Feb 2018
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 25, 2018 12:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mack wrote:
that is one warped body! I wonder what caused that in that generation of Revell kits?


Maybe the way the bodies were packed in the box with the other components of the kit, and they were probably exposed to heat at some point in time. I like the way some new kits have protective packaging inside the body to help prevent warping, or breakage. I've used a hair drier, and heated water on warped bodies with good success, just have to work slowly, a bit at a time, and don't over heat the plastic. Your mileage may vary.
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JWVD5953



Joined: 06 Nov 2018
Posts: 365
Location: Florida

PostPosted: Sun Nov 25, 2018 5:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not sure what caused that problem. I thought years ago
someone said taking the parts out of the mold prematurely
would cause that. Anyways the front is slowly coming down,
now I have to straighten the left side of the body. It looks
out of square when compared to the right side and the rear
fenders. I am going to run hot water on the inside near the
bottom of the window openings and try pushing the body back
"in" so it matches the right side. Here's a left and right side view.
I have more engine work done, I liked the way they wired these
few kits with plug wires, often wondered why they didn't do this for
all their kits.---John



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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Sun Nov 25, 2018 5:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Better picture of the plug wires.---John

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"Fireball"



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PostPosted: Sun Nov 25, 2018 6:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very nice job you're doing so far. I'm with you on the plug wires, as I've always wondered why more manufacturers didn't do the plug wires like this in their kits. Thanks for sharing.
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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Sun Nov 25, 2018 8:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Enough for me for one day. I just ran hot water on the inside
of the body below the window on the left side. It pushed in to
almost "square" but still a bit off. I noticed the "bad" side on the
inside has a scribe or ridge of some sort. The right side is smooth
inside with no line. Is this a mold defect? Did this cause the side
to push out? The first picture shows the side after hot water and
pushing. The second picture shows the "line" on the body's left'
bad side, inside. The third picture shows the right side of the body
inside, smooth with no "line".---John



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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Mon Nov 26, 2018 12:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just tried the hair dryer with some success. This "residual stress"
is a pain big times. I dealt with this for 42 years in the welding trade
and was hoping to never have to deal with it again. This is SUPPOSE
to be a relaxing hobby. Anyways I tried the hood and it fits somewhat
so I will glue it down and pull the body parts to it. I had been gluing
the hoods on for quite a few models, I get a better looking fit and can
paint the whole deal in one smooth shot. If I want to gaze at the engine
I can take the body off the chassis. I never was a big fan of "peek-a-boo"
options on models anyways. Not sure where the shiney area on the hood
came from, looks like glue but it was in a sealed box in a sealed inner bag.
This kit is more screwed up than a "soup sandwich"!---John


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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2018 12:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The engine is done. I need to do the exhausts but have to
spray them, it's too cold in my paint booth, may warm up
by the weekend.---John

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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Wed Nov 28, 2018 4:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I lucked out today, it got up to 70 degrees in my paint shop so
I got a start on the headers and exhausts. I painted the headers
aluminum, using Tamiya TS-30 silver leaf and the exhaust steel,
using Tamiya light gun metal TS-42. I ran out of time so tomorrow
I should be able to mask the headers and do the "collectors" on the
end of the headers steel.---John

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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2018 5:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have the frame and cage parts sprayed red. I need to
detail paint the roll cage padding, firewall components, fuel
cell and window netting.---John

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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Mon Dec 03, 2018 8:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I started assembling the chassis.---John


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Dennis O
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Joined: 28 Jan 2018
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2018 10:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's coming along nicely....
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Shunter



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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2018 2:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good progress even with the issues. That mark on the hood is bazaar
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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2018 3:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks. The mark on the hood has me baffled. All the parts
were in a sealed box in a sealed bag. It looks like some one
dribbled glue but it's most likely a defect from molding. The
body is almost straight enough to paint, a few more sessions
and I am calling it good enough!---John

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"Fireball"



Joined: 09 Feb 2018
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2018 1:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Appears to me that the sealed kit was probably subjected to heat at some point in it's life, and possibly the plastic bag may have been in contact with the hood. Thus, possibly leaving a residue mark from the plastic bag on the hood. BTW, very nice job on the warpage repair!
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mprmprmpr



Joined: 29 Jan 2018
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Location: New Jersey

PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2018 7:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A lot of times the tires can leave marks like this on the plastic. I'm guessing that's what happened here. I could be wrong, but it almost looks like you can see an imprint of part of the the raised Goodyear lettering backwards in the one picture.

.
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JWVD5953



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Location: Florida

PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2018 11:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting theories, the tires were in the very bottom with the decals and instructions. The hood was at the top no where near the tires. There was at least 3 sprues of plastic between the hood and tires.. The hood was facing up so if it ever did touch the tires the mark would be on the hoods underside , but this mark is on top. It's date on the body is 1995 & 1998 so it's a possible 20 to 23 year mystery. I have no clue except maybe the bag touched the hood when it was in a hot storage area or it's just a mold defect. The box is starting to fall apart, the glue seems to be drying up and the box is coming apart at the seams. Outside of that I am making good progress!---John
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Henryjint



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2018 7:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mprmprmpr wrote:
A lot of times the tires can leave marks like this on the plastic. I'm guessing that's what happened here. I could be wrong, but it almost looks like you can see an imprint of part of the the raised Goodyear lettering backwards in the one picture.

.

Usually found the tires sticking to the clear parts!
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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2018 10:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

More work on the cage and some front end pieces.---John

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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Sat Dec 22, 2018 10:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The cage is almost done.---John

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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Tue Dec 25, 2018 2:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The engine and suspension are installed. I just need to add
the drive shaft and exhaust. I did a test fit of the chassis to
the body. It looks like I need more twisting on the body. One
side of the wheel wells seems close to the fender wells than
the other. Not a whole lot but noticeable. Why am I not
surprised?---John



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Mack



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 25, 2018 3:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OUTSTANDING!!!!!!!
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Bobby The Cabdriver



Joined: 19 Oct 2018
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 25, 2018 5:04 pm    Post subject: Bill Elliott Thunderbird Reply with quote

Great looking chassis! I've experienced similar problems with monogram bodies over the years, but nothing compared to the MPC Yarbrough Laguna I bought recently from an online picker site in Seattle. I paid $35 for it and found the most warped body I've ever seen in a model car. Goes back to the saying if it's too good to be true it usually is. I attempted to do what I've done in the past( after fabbing together a chassis that actually fit the body) which is assembling the entire chassis with Dash and deck but without the roll cage and taping it very tightly to the body. And from there put it in the bathroom sink and cranked up the hot water periodically checking on it and pushing it where needed firmly with my finger. This didn't work with the MPC Laguna, I wound up cutting it into three separate pieces and zapagaping back together. But it worked like a charm on my DJ 88 T-Bird same kit as yours as well as my Earnhardt MC Aero coupe from the double kit. Both of which were warped as bad as yours. Leave the back bumper off but tape the hood in and keep your windshield and back glass handy to test fit repeatedly.
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JWVD5953



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Location: Florida

PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2018 5:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, the chassis is done and the wheels are on. Now to do
some more straightening on the body.---John


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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Mon Dec 31, 2018 6:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tried the body again with the wheels now on the chassis. More twisting on
the body. You can see that the rear wheels and exhausts show the cross
wise twist in the body. It's a shame because it sits almost perfectly flat
now, just the twist.---John

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john843



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 31, 2018 7:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

John, did you use aluminum Bare Metal Foil to do the radiator and oil cooler ducting or some type of Metalizer? Whatever the means, it is as good as I've seen. The exhaust and overflow reservoir look great too!

John
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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Mon Dec 31, 2018 8:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

John thanks. The radiator and overflow were done with Tamiya rattle can
spray TS-30 silver leaf as was the headers, the exhaust system exiting the
car body was Tamiya rattle can spray TS-42 light gun metal.---John
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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2019 7:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I finally have it as good as it will get. Tired of screwing around, it's getting
old. Now to putty the mark on the hood.---John


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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2019 7:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just finished wet sanding the hood.Nice and smooth now.
Ready to paint. Also the hood is glued down. I like the fit
better. If I want to see the innards I can pull the body off.---John

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cannascarfan



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PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2019 10:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

looking real good so far!

,todd
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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2019 9:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The body interior is painted as is the yellow trim all around
the exterior body and the tires decalled. Now to mask and
paint the body blue, them black under the yellow where the
exhausts exit, then gloss coat and decal.---John

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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2019 9:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hoping it will replicate this scheme pretty good.---John

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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2019 1:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's blue.---John


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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2019 4:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Masks removed.---John


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Shunter



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PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2019 6:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Came up looking great..
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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2019 5:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, started decals.---John

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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2019 1:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Decals just about done.---John


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john843



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PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2019 8:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fantastic job! Always thought that was a really sharp livery and you're certainly doing it justice.

John
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Mack



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PostPosted: Sat Jan 26, 2019 9:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mighty nice paint work there. I'm tuned in for sure.
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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Tue Jan 29, 2019 1:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, decals all on and gloss coated. Now to mask and paint
windows.---John


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Shunter



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2019 2:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks great, nice persistence on the body issues.
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JWVD5953



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PostPosted: Thu Jan 31, 2019 8:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, it's done and posted in The Showroom.---John
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