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1973 & 1974 Chevelle
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Firefly



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
Posts: 808
Location: New Jersey

PostPosted: Wed Apr 10, 2019 8:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

john843 wrote:
...
Would the Model King body with the louvers removed and the Kar-Kare nose (with bumper chromed) be closer or possibly the upper valence and chrome bumper from the Johncock on the MK body?

Thanx for any advice,

John


Don't put a chrome bumper on the Kar Kare nose! The Urethane nose is sculpted differently around the headlamps and grille and actually protrudes more than the standard nose pieces. Try fitting the AMT standard nose piece and chrome bumper on the MPC/MK body.
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Tom M.
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Joined: 01 Feb 2018
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 10, 2019 9:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Firefly wrote:
john843 wrote:
...
Would the Model King body with the louvers removed and the Kar-Kare nose (with bumper chromed) be closer or possibly the upper valence and chrome bumper from the Johncock on the MK body?

Thanx for any advice,

John


Don't put a chrome bumper on the Kar Kare nose! The Urethane nose is sculpted differently around the headlamps and grille and actually protrudes more than the standard nose pieces. Try fitting the AMT standard nose piece and chrome bumper on the MPC/MK body.


What I would do is glue the Kar Kare urethane nose to the body then carefully cut it off just VERY slightly in front of the forwardmost part of the hood opening. This allows the use of the correct MPC hood with the center portion extended forward in relation to the portion just behind the headlights. Then fit the entire AMT valence for the chrome bumper/grille to the remaining part of the Kar Kare nose.
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BVAUGHN



Joined: 29 Jan 2018
Posts: 503

PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2019 7:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

On the pix of Bobby Allison's Coke car, did anyone notice he had a #12 where the front license plate would have been?
Bill
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AndyS



Joined: 30 Jan 2019
Posts: 61

PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2019 4:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BVAUGHN wrote:
On the pix of Bobby Allison's Coke car, did anyone notice he had a #12 where the front license plate would have been?
Bill


So I wasn't the only one who noticed that?

It did look unusual, I don't recall that detail from when I followed BA during that period. I don't think it was real common, but could be wrong.
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Firefly



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
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Location: New Jersey

PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2019 12:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

AndyS wrote:
BVAUGHN wrote:
On the pix of Bobby Allison's Coke car, did anyone notice he had a #12 where the front license plate would have been?
Bill


So I wasn't the only one who noticed that?

It did look unusual, I don't recall that detail from when I followed BA during that period. I don't think it was real common, but could be wrong.


It was unusual at that time for such a flat spot for a plate.
I guess it was just inviting something to go there.
Cale had a Valvoline decal on his.
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AdamtheWayne



Joined: 09 Jul 2018
Posts: 1182

PostPosted: Sat Apr 13, 2019 1:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the Chevellibuguna from Mack today (Thank you!).

I see now why everyone prefers this particular iteration. Crisper, more spec castings than the AMT, even though they are very similar in design. Unfortunately this model has it's bumpers attached. No biggie. I'll mold the clip, tail and window net, then after casting just clear out the surrounding plastic to get the base part.

Then, since it has a better fuel filler location and I can start with virgin plastic, I'll use the Pepsi Laguna to backdate by grafting in the deck lid and tail panel and opening the side windows.

I haven't forgotten those Laguna opera windows either. I'll be making a test shot mold for some replacement pieces when I pour the bumpers I'm working on later tonight.

So here's what SHOULD happen over the next couple months: Monte Carlo bumpers, late 60's, early 70's mopar chassis, parts pack for common used parts and upgrades (Anybody want a reserve oil tank/battery tray?) then the Chevelle.

IF I DO a trans-kit for use on the Laguna (cut your own opera windows) I can probably have it done a lot quicker. What do you guys think?
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Tom Birky



Joined: 01 Feb 2018
Posts: 197
Location: Eastern Iowa

PostPosted: Sat Apr 13, 2019 1:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Personally, a transkit for the laguna. No window fit issues, no fragile a pillars and you'd not have to worry about the dreaded resin body roof warp. Just my opinion. I'd buy a couple.

Tb
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AdamtheWayne



Joined: 09 Jul 2018
Posts: 1182

PostPosted: Sat Apr 13, 2019 2:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tom Birky wrote:
Personally, a transkit for the laguna. No window fit issues, no fragile a pillars and you'd not have to worry about the dreaded resin body roof warp. Just my opinion. I'd buy a couple.

Tb
That's kind of where I'm at. I feel like it would be better for the builder expense wise and certainly for me. Plus, you buy the Laguna kit you have the chassis and all to replicate the original.

Now I'm considering whether to do an end cap on the rear or an end cap and deck lid. I can make an end cap that blends in, changing the trunk line, right behind the spoiler which would be the easiest for most builders and leave no need to remove the entire trunk, maintaining structural stability. Yupp… that's the ticket.

See? Sometimes all I need to do is type it down to work it out.

Thanks all for your help and suggestions.
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Tom Birky



Joined: 01 Feb 2018
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Location: Eastern Iowa

PostPosted: Sat Apr 13, 2019 3:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I tend to agree. A resin end cap shouldn't be too hard to match the trunk grooves and blend them in with a razor saw. I should imagine it would be a whole lot less molding rubber as well.


tb
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AdamtheWayne



Joined: 09 Jul 2018
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 13, 2019 3:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tom Birky wrote:
I tend to agree. A resin end cap shouldn't be too hard to match the trunk grooves and blend them in with a razor saw. I should imagine it would be a whole lot less molding rubber as well.


tb
Oh abso-LUTE-ly! To do that, all I need to do is an inch deep mold either end, maybe even less. No need to do the window net really. As I recall, this is the only kit they did that had the net cast to the body, right?
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Tom M.
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 13, 2019 4:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The original '72 Torino (Isaac kit) also had the net molded in.
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