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Monogram 1983-1986 T-Bird: nose set too high?

 
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robdebie



Joined: 21 Dec 2006
Posts: 62

PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2016 4:55 pm    Post subject: Monogram 1983-1986 T-Bird: nose set too high? Reply with quote

As you may have seen in other threads I'm busy hacking up a Monogram 1983-1986 T-Bird. Despite all modifications so far, the model still did not look like the real car in the photos. One thing I kept 'seeing' is that the whole nose (ahead of the windscreen) looked strange. I found a good side view of the street car, compared it to a similar photo of the model, and found two problems.

First, the fenders were too bulged in side view. I decided to take out 1 millimeter of height at the middle of the fender. I glued a 2.0 x 1.0 mm strip against the lower side, to avoid the risk of sanding right through. I also sanded the outer parts of the hood to match the new shape. That hood still does not fit, because of the lengthening.



Second, the analysis showed that the whole nose is set too high, around 1 millimeter. I could have corrected that easily when I lengthened the nose, but alas. I had to cut off the nose a second time. I used an alignment jig, and plastic card is placed under the rear part of the jig. I thought I would lower it 1.0 mm, but I went for 1.5 mm. In this photo everything is taped together, and I will take some time to study whether this correction is visually correct.



What do you guys think? Do you see the difference when you hold an unmodified body in the same position as in the last photo?

Rob
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robdebie



Joined: 21 Dec 2006
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2016 7:00 pm    Post subject: Re: Monogram 1983-1986 T-Bird: nose set too high? Reply with quote

Here's the body glued together again, with Apoxie putty and white paint applied. The joints on the inside were again reinforced with plastic strip. To compensate for the 1.5 mm drop of the nose, I moved the wheel openings up by the same amount by sanding the radius. The wheel opening's apex is now quite close to the upper side of the fender, just like in the photos of the real car.



I think it's an improvement. What do you think?

Rob
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lionpride



Joined: 16 Jul 2007
Posts: 2734

PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2016 7:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When you get all the kinks worked out, you might have some requests have that sucker cast.

Nice work,
Don
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robdebie



Joined: 21 Dec 2006
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2016 7:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

lionpride wrote:
When you get all the kinks worked out, you might have some requests have that sucker cast.

Don, I've cast smaller parts, but never a body. It could be a long and costly road before I master that..



Rob
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scooter64



Joined: 10 Aug 2016
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 04, 2016 12:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

instead of doing a resin...could you do vacuum formed?
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robdebie



Joined: 21 Dec 2006
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 06, 2016 1:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

scooter64 wrote:
instead of doing a resin...could you do vacuum formed?

A vacuum-formed body, that's a new idea to me. Do these exist, outside the RC world? I've built a small vacforming mold from glass fiber in the past, for an aircraft canopy, but for a full car body it's quite a lot of work I think. But I will think a bit more about this option.

Rob
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robdebie



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PostPosted: Wed Dec 28, 2016 7:20 pm    Post subject: Re: Monogram 1983-1986 T-Bird: nose set too high? Reply with quote

Work on my Elliott 1985 Daytona T-bird slowed down a bit, but I've worked on the nose this week. I wanted to make the nose a bit more pointy, since the Monogram model is too blunt if you ask me. So I cut out the grill part and moved it forward using a small jig. The two headlight openings were partly cut loose from the fenders and rotated accordingly. Then the parts were glued back together. The modified nose was very vulnerable, and I broke it twice. Therefore I added a plastic card brace on the inside, that also ensures a solid fit of the headlights.during the numerous test-fittings. I can now continue work on the headlights themselves.



The bumper also requires modifications to fit on the pointy nose. I started with drilling four 2 mm holes all the way through the bumper at the points where the bumper needed a different angle, followed by sawcuts from the rear side. The two outboard holes got a 1 mm plastic card shim in the sawcuts to open up the holes, followed by Apoxie. The inboard holes got a wider sawcut that were subsequently closed by bending the bumper, with plastic straps glued on to keep the gaps closed. The bumper still needs to be reduced in width, some 4 mm in the middle.



Comments are welcome.

Rob
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Tom M.
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 28, 2016 9:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think that "pointing" the nose will also help another issue that I've seen with that body, one that I think is also related to the length of the kit body being a little short. To my eye the bumper ends needed to flare out more so that the end of the nose didn't look "pinched" in relation to the width of the fenders. flaring the ends of the bumper out should make the lines flow better.
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robdebie



Joined: 21 Dec 2006
Posts: 62

PostPosted: Wed Dec 28, 2016 10:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tom M. wrote:
I think that "pointing" the nose will also help another issue that I've seen with that body, one that I think is also related to the length of the kit body being a little short. To my eye the bumper ends needed to flare out more so that the end of the nose didn't look "pinched" in relation to the width of the fenders. flaring the ends of the bumper out should make the lines flow better.

I fully agree that the body is too short. I already added 5 mm to the windscreen end of the hood, moved the whole nose 3 mm forward, and the grille an additional 2 mm forward, while rotating the headlights. It's a lot of work.. Here's an older photo comparing the modified (white) nose and the sort-of original (red) nose. The difference is not very obvious, it's quite subtle.



Regarding the bumper, I'm working towards this shape. I see a continuous line from the wheel opening forward.



Rob
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Tom M.
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 28, 2016 10:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Exactly. That photo was what I was trying to describe. It's a body line that Monogram missed on almost all their early '80s kits, not just the Thunderbird although I think the Thunderbird is the worst offender. The Buick isn't horrible but the Monte Carlo SS could also benefit from some work in that area I think.
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Matt T.



Joined: 09 Apr 2004
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 02, 2017 4:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rob - GREAT work so far! This looks so much better. If you do create bodies for sale (resin or vac) I would be in for two. I'd like to build a '83 #15 & '85 #9 and have them look right.

Tom - good point on the bumper lines. I will try to rework that on my next Monte Carlo.
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Lanny Haas



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PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2017 5:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Isn't that the Ford that was so narrow according to DW, that it needed a kick stand
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robdebie



Joined: 21 Dec 2006
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 09, 2017 1:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I made some progress on the bumper that required several modifications to fit on the pointy nose.

I started with drilling four 2 mm holes all the way through the bumper at the points where the bumper needed a different angle, followed by sawcuts from the rear side. The two outboard holes got a 1 mm plastic card shim in the sawcuts to open up the holes, followed by Apoxie. The inboard holes got a wider sawcut that were subsequently closed by bending the bumper, with plastic straps glued on to keep the gaps closed.



The bumper needs to be reduced in width, some 4 mm in total. First I thought I would cut it out of the middle section, but study of photos showed that I had to take two 2 mm segments from the outboard sections. Since I've experienced numerous problems aligning parts after cutting them, I made yet another jig to hold the parts. The jig was made from plastic card and Apoxie.



And here's the modified part, still rough, test-fitted to the nose:





Comments are welcome!

Rob
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robdebie



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PostPosted: Sun Aug 27, 2017 7:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've done some more work on the bumper, cut off the spoiler to reshape it, and applied some paint over most of the modifications. I hope the new shape is better to see now. I wish I had another spare white unmodified body to make a comparison, but I used up the two I had.







Rob


Last edited by robdebie on Sun Aug 27, 2017 7:51 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Tom M.
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 27, 2017 7:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks great! You have a good eye.
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The Dark Side, when cars were steel, bumpers were chrome and men were iron...

"You should never point a loaded gun at anyone. This is not a hard and fast rule, however. A hard and fast rule is that you should never, ever, point an unloaded gun at anyone." P.J. O'Rourke
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Lanny Haas



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PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2017 5:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shocked WOW good stuff
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