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Randy Ayers Nascar Modeling Forums
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john843
Joined: 28 Jan 2018 Posts: 607 Location: S.C. Lowcountry
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Posted: Fri Dec 06, 2019 7:54 pm Post subject: rear bumper width on MPC Yarborough Chevelle |
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I had started on the body on one of these some time back and noticed the rear bumper is between 1/16th" and 1/8th" inch (overall) too wide. Was wondering if anyone knows the best way to draw it in. My first thought was to just section it out of the middle of the bumper but wasn't sure if there might not be enough material on the ends to sand it away. If there is, it'll be really close.
If anybody has dealt with this, any tips would be appreciated.
John |
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Firefly
Joined: 28 Jan 2018 Posts: 810 Location: New Jersey
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Posted: Fri Dec 06, 2019 10:40 pm Post subject: |
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I've sectioned bumpers with a hobby saw in the middle, and with differences of around 1/16" the material cut away by the saw, in addition to some sanding of the cut surfaces, takes out about that much. In your case however, it will affect the width of the license plate area.
You can do it like the actual teams did, by sectioning on each side of the bumper, just outside of where the bumper mount would be. Take a look at the chrome bumpers on '70s race cars and notice the tell-tale vertical seams about a foot or so from the sides.
If you cut too much, glue a styrene strip on the inside of the bumper pieces to hold them together at the proper width, and fill the gaps with putty. _________________ Bill Jobson is my real name. |
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john843
Joined: 28 Jan 2018 Posts: 607 Location: S.C. Lowcountry
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Posted: Sat Dec 07, 2019 1:49 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Bill, I didn't even consider that I'd get a license plate area that would be noticeably narrow. Look's like the method that Lennie used should work fine!
Thanks,
John |
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joe b
Joined: 31 Jan 2018 Posts: 209 Location: New Jersey
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Posted: Tue Dec 17, 2019 10:14 am Post subject: |
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yeah but how do you do that with a salvino bumper?
joe |
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Orangeastre
Joined: 29 Jan 2018 Posts: 212
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Posted: Tue Dec 17, 2019 5:47 pm Post subject: |
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joe b wrote: | yeah but how do you do that with a salvino bumper?
joe |
Plasma cutter? |
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Jim N
Joined: 29 Jan 2018 Posts: 650
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Posted: Wed Dec 18, 2019 1:11 pm Post subject: |
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I have several Salvino's kits, but have yet to start on them. It is my understanding that the part itself is plastic, but the coating is more of a true chrome. If your modelling saw will not work, wouldn't a hack saw blade work? |
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AdamtheWayne
Joined: 09 Jul 2018 Posts: 1182
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Posted: Wed Dec 18, 2019 1:46 pm Post subject: |
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Jim N wrote: | I have several Salvino's kits, but have yet to start on them. It is my understanding that the part itself is plastic, but the coating is more of a true chrome. If your modelling saw will not work, wouldn't a hack saw blade work? | The chrome on these parts is actual metal. The parts are coated with a copper base then plated, much like plastic 1:1 car parts. My suggestion, although maybe a little expensive, is a diamond blade for a jeweler's saw, or the cheaper alternative, a diamond cutting wheel on a Dremel. _________________ "Dude, it's not Camelot... it's only a model." "Details man, I need details!!" |
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AdamtheWayne
Joined: 09 Jul 2018 Posts: 1182
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Posted: Wed Dec 18, 2019 1:59 pm Post subject: Re: rear bumper width on MPC Yarborough Chevelle |
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john843 wrote: | I had started on the body on one of these some time back and noticed the rear bumper is between 1/16th" and 1/8th" inch (overall) too wide. Was wondering if anyone knows the best way to draw it in. My first thought was to just section it out of the middle of the bumper but wasn't sure if there might not be enough material on the ends to sand it away. If there is, it'll be really close.
If anybody has dealt with this, any tips would be appreciated.
John | Currently working on this very thing. Although my version won't actually be sectioned. Since I am trying to meet that fine line between both bumper styles, mine will have a slight edge sticking out and separate shields.
I will scribe them in directly beneath the deck lid gaps and tail lights.
If you intend to section them, this is where you'd cut. Cut as square as you can and sand the edges straight. You'll want a piece of .005 sheet between the sections, just a hair back from the face to give you a tiny gap, or you can glue them back together and scribe the gap on your seam.
To maintain the proper look, make sure your center section is even side to side from the center point. If it's 15mm from center to cut on the left, the right needs to be too. This will help you keep your sides even when you begin sanding down your ends.
Tip of the day: Never ever ever, cut, grind, sand, file, carve or use the force all the way to your mark! Always leave a little plastic behind and sand by hand until you get the proper fit. _________________ "Dude, it's not Camelot... it's only a model." "Details man, I need details!!" |
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joe b
Joined: 31 Jan 2018 Posts: 209 Location: New Jersey
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Posted: Mon Dec 30, 2019 8:33 pm Post subject: |
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Firefly wrote: | I've sectioned bumpers with a hobby saw in the middle, and with differences of around 1/16" the material cut away by the saw, in addition to some sanding of the cut surfaces, takes out about that much. In your case however, it will affect the width of the license plate area.
You can do it like the actual teams did, by sectioning on each side of the bumper, just outside of where the bumper mount would be. Take a look at the chrome bumpers on '70s race cars and notice the tell-tale vertical seams about a foot or so from the sides.
If you cut too much, glue a styrene strip on the inside of the bumper pieces to hold them together at the proper width, and fill the gaps with putty. |
adam send this to salvinos and tell them this is what or why we are complaining about their chrome. you could include my comment and orangeastre in it. maybe this will get through and make him understand. |
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