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RP 1984 200 winner

 
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jim unger



Joined: 18 Feb 2018
Posts: 45
Location: Rhinelander WI

PostPosted: Wed Oct 02, 2019 8:25 pm    Post subject: RP 1984 200 winner Reply with quote

Just started on Richard's 1984 Pontiac Grand Prix, the Firecracker and 200 win winner. I'm using the wonderful decals from Mikes and need to know what spray can paint to use for the red. I plan to use Tamiya #23 for the blue and wondered if their florescent red would be good to use for this project.

Thanks for any help.
Jim
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AdamtheWayne



Joined: 09 Jul 2018
Posts: 1182

PostPosted: Wed Oct 02, 2019 9:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you have a can of Tamiya TS-36 Flourescent red, that's pretty much the standard go-to. I was in the stands that day, screaming my lungs out. Can't wait to see this done.

For the closest Petty blue you can't beat "Basin Street Blue" by Plymouth. Closest I've found in Testors is light, bright blue.
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jim unger



Joined: 18 Feb 2018
Posts: 45
Location: Rhinelander WI

PostPosted: Thu Oct 03, 2019 2:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

AdamtheWayne wrote:
If you have a can of Tamiya TS-36 Flourescent red, that's pretty much the standard go-to. I was in the stands that day, screaming my lungs out. Can't wait to see this done.

For the closest Petty blue you can't beat "Basin Street Blue" by Plymouth. Closest I've found in Testors is light, bright blue.

Adam, I have 1/2 can of TS36 but I also want to do Richard's 1992 last ride and don't know if I can have enough to do both cars. I tried both Model Roundup and Megga Hobby and they don't have TS 36 so what spray can florescent red can I use for this and other Petty projects that I have on the back burner; 1973, 1974, 1976, 1979, abnd 1981. These are for my Daytona 500 winner project. I want the red to be consistant throughout the many Petty builds.

Thanks much for the help and also thanbk you for the Petty Satelite hood, it will be put to good use with my old MPC body.
Jim
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AdamtheWayne



Joined: 09 Jul 2018
Posts: 1182

PostPosted: Thu Oct 03, 2019 3:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

WHoaH! I now see your dilemma.

Since TS-36 is currently unavailable, even from the manufacturer, you need a replacement.

Back in the day when fluorescent orange was commonly available guys would use that under the name "glowing Cerise" but it wasn't red enough. A couple light coats of candy red would fix that right up. So that's one method but, it get's a bit tedious.

The actual name of STP red is dun-dun-duuuuuhhh… Vermillion. I have found it available from many aftermarketers, in a number of forms from lacquer to water based, so it should be easy to find however you want. Failing that, you just need a fluorescent red.

Standard old fluorescent red can be found most anywhere in any form as well these days.

With any fluorescing paint you need a pure white base as if you were doing Alclaad, but white. You want gloss. (I'm telling you all this because I don't know how much you already know so I'm covering bases.)

Count on multiple thin coats. When you've achieved the level of red you like and the paint has dried, do yourself a HUGE favor. Take a fresh blade and score around the tape edges everywhere before unmasking. These paints are a lot softer than the average and fresh paint will tear, while fully cured paint will chip.

I always make the neon the last color to go on because of this and because handling them will dirty them quick!

Until you get a coat of clear over it, keep the hands washed while handling and fingers off the neon as best you can. Hope some of this helps.
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jim unger



Joined: 18 Feb 2018
Posts: 45
Location: Rhinelander WI

PostPosted: Thu Oct 03, 2019 8:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

AdamtheWayne wrote:
WHoaH! I now see your dilemma.

Since TS-36 is currently unavailable, even from the manufacturer, you need a replacement.

Back in the day when fluorescent orange was commonly available guys would use that under the name "glowing Cerise" but it wasn't red enough. A couple light coats of candy red would fix that right up. So that's one method but, it get's a bit tedious.

The actual name of STP red is dun-dun-duuuuuhhh… Vermillion. I have found it available from many aftermarketers, in a number of forms from lacquer to water based, so it should be easy to find however you want. Failing that, you just need a fluorescent red.

Standard old fluorescent red can be found most anywhere in any form as well these days.

With any fluorescing paint you need a pure white base as if you were doing Alclaad, but white. You want gloss. (I'm telling you all this because I don't know how much you already know so I'm covering bases.)

Count on multiple thin coats. When you've achieved the level of red you like and the paint has dried, do yourself a HUGE favor. Take a fresh blade and score around the tape edges everywhere before unmasking. These paints are a lot softer than the average and fresh paint will tear, while fully cured paint will chip.

I always make the neon the last color to go on because of this and because handling them will dirty them quick!

Until you get a coat of clear over it, keep the hands washed while handling and fingers off the neon as best you can. Hope some of this helps.

Adam, tha nks for theinfo.
Jim
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odcics2



Joined: 09 Feb 2018
Posts: 283

PostPosted: Sat Oct 05, 2019 12:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is it going to have an oversized engine? Laughing
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odcics2



Joined: 09 Feb 2018
Posts: 283

PostPosted: Sat Oct 05, 2019 12:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

AdamtheWayne wrote:
If you have a can of Tamiya TS-36 Flourescent red, that's pretty much the standard go-to. I was in the stands that day, screaming my lungs out. Can't wait to see this done.

For the closest Petty blue you can't beat "Basin Street Blue" by Plymouth. Closest I've found in Testors is light, bright blue.


"TB-3"is the MoPar code for it. Mine is labeled "Super Blue" for Dodge.

Yes, it is EXACTLY "Petty Blue".
I still have a can of it from the 1972-3 timeframe.
Empty, but the cap is even exact! Laughing

I used it to paint a lot of my tools back in the day, and models!!
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AdamtheWayne



Joined: 09 Jul 2018
Posts: 1182

PostPosted: Sat Oct 05, 2019 7:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No worries Jim. I typically visit my local auto paint supplier and get mine mixed on the spot. If I'm not going to be able to use my air brush for whatever reason, I can get a 3 ounce rattle can made for around twenty bucks. That will usually get me through two, two and a half kits.
Most suppliers can make you a "touch up" can like this. Be wary of the type of paint as well. If enamel is available to you get it. The lacquer version is closer to Super blue. The hue will change when it's clear coated! Super Blue has a touch more green in it. Basin street is pure electric blue.

If you get Super Blue, do yourself a favor. I know this is going to sound way beyond left field but, before any clear coat, give the whole car one mist coat of dull clear. Somehow this keeps the clear top coat from pulling up the green in it and making it look more turquoise.
Of course you're going to want to clear this with automotive clear but I've found a can of duplicolor high gloss automotive clear to be sufficient in most cases.

Both colors have their issues I guess is what I'm saying. For my money and time it's Basin Street enamel and Duplicolor clear. Tamiya clear has been known to cause discoloration.
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AdamtheWayne



Joined: 09 Jul 2018
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 05, 2019 7:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

odcics2 wrote:
AdamtheWayne wrote:
If you have a can of Tamiya TS-36 Flourescent red, that's pretty much the standard go-to. I was in the stands that day, screaming my lungs out. Can't wait to see this done.

For the closest Petty blue you can't beat "Basin Street Blue" by Plymouth. Closest I've found in Testors is light, bright blue.


"TB-3"is the MoPar code for it. Mine is labeled "Super Blue" for Dodge.

Yes, it is EXACTLY "Petty Blue".
I still have a can of it from the 1972-3 timeframe.
Empty, but the cap is even exact! Laughing

I used it to paint a lot of my tools back in the day, and models!!
I remember those pencil cans! Back when they came with a metal cap and if you didn't use it all within a week the nozzle became hard as a rock. Laughing I miss those cans. they were perfect for one good model and a little of the next one. Smile
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odcics2



Joined: 09 Feb 2018
Posts: 283

PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2019 4:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chrysler TB3 in the 1972-3 timeframe are the exact same color.
Dodge called it Super Blue, Plymouth called it Street Basin Blue.
No green anything in Super Blue...
I had spray cans with both names, sprayed out the same.

The cans I am talking about were about 2.5" in diameter and 4" tall, not the skinny "touch up" paints... that DID dry out fast!!

In 1970, Dodge had Hemi Orange and Plymouth had Tor Red.
Both coded EV2, exact same color.

I guess a bigger question would be WHY they called the same color different names.

Did Ford and GM do this back then?
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Tom M.
Board Moderator


Joined: 01 Feb 2018
Posts: 600

PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2019 5:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

odcics2 wrote:
I guess a bigger question would be WHY they called the same color different names.

Did Ford and GM do this back then?


Yes. During that same era you had Chevy Hugger Orange and Pontiac Carousel Red, for instance. And basically every color that was used across divisions was the same way. Different names for the same PPG code.

Ford did it also, although not quite as consistently as GM did. For example, the revival of Poppy Red in 1970 was called Calypso Coral on a Ford and Competition Orange on a Mercury.
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George Andrews



Joined: 30 Jan 2018
Posts: 458

PostPosted: Mon Oct 07, 2019 9:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

odcics2 wrote:
Is it going to have an oversized engine? Laughing

Not likely. The Big Motor deal was the year before - the Fall race @ Charlotte in 1983. ( Wrong tires on the car too Rolling Eyes ) NASCAR learned a LOT about how teams had been cheating up their engines, and tightened up their inspections. No more wax on the pistons, wire in the exhaust valve seat, or number 1 cylinder correct cubic inches and the others too big. NASCAR now makes the teams run the engine for 10 minutes before choosing a cylinder at random to check. The penalties are brutal now as well, with the entire team banned for at least FIVE RACES !!! Shocked
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john843



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
Posts: 607
Location: S.C. Lowcountry

PostPosted: Tue Oct 08, 2019 5:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, the 383 c.i. engine was at Charlotte for his 198th win. If I'm not mistaken, the engine for his 200 win car was supplied by DiGard and was built specifically by Robert Yates.

John
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