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LastoftheV8
Joined: 05 Feb 2018 Posts: 127
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Posted: Wed Jun 19, 2019 6:06 pm Post subject: 1973 Petty Charger Build 1/24 scale decals and tips |
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i looked around (on Mikes and others) for a set of 1/24 decals for the petty 1973 charger. but I have not luck. only found sets for the 1/16 kit. if you know of a vendor or source for a sheet, I would greatly appreciate it.
Also how would you recommend or advise to the do the pink sides and strips on the roof / hood? Im guess any sheet that does exist doesn't have those as decals and you have to paint the blue and pink parts. i have tested Tamiya paints on spare bodies and the blue and pink look great. Just at a loss on how to properly make those sections off. I'm trying to think of a better way than trying to freehand it. |
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Jim N
Joined: 29 Jan 2018 Posts: 650
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Posted: Thu Jun 20, 2019 11:53 am Post subject: |
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First it's a neon red and not pink. The lighting can play tricks with this color but it is red. Some see orange as well.
You will have to mask off the car. If anyone makes decals of the red parts, it will probably not be right anyway. I suggest using Tamiya tape where the paint separation lines will be and then the blue painters tape for the rest.
As far as decals, try Southern Motorsports Hobbies or Patto's Place.
I hope this helps. |
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junkman9096
Joined: 06 Feb 2018 Posts: 10
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Posted: Thu Jun 20, 2019 8:57 pm Post subject: |
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Things I never knew: 1996-97 I bought a Slixx sheet with of Ernie Irvan's Texaco T-Bird. The red on it was fluorescent! Having watched NASCAR and seen the Monogram kit I just knew that was wrong. Then I went to the Sears Point race that year and after watching Ernie spin out in front of me during practice, I found the fluorescent red was the right one. TV (and even photos) may not be a good indicator of actual colors. |
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AdamtheWayne
Joined: 09 Jul 2018 Posts: 1182
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Posted: Thu Jun 20, 2019 11:29 pm Post subject: |
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Photos can be terrible reference, which is why people think Petty blue changed over the years. I can tell you for fact, it has NOT. I can show ten different shots of the same car, each one a different shade.
If you can locate a Polar Lights Petty decal sheet, that will provide your stripes.
The STP red, is actually called "Vermillion". Since Tamiya has stopped making theirs, a neon RED, not orange, will suffice.
For Petty Blue. Good Luck. The formula is a closely guarded Petty family secret. For the closest match in automotive paint, go with 1972 Basin Street Blue. Testors has light bright blue which is VERY close, or Tamiya TS23 blue. You can also order Petty Blue from MCWautomotive finishes.
Contact me if you need any reference material or detail help. Cheers! _________________ "Dude, it's not Camelot... it's only a model." "Details man, I need details!!" |
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odcics2
Joined: 09 Feb 2018 Posts: 283
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Posted: Sat Jun 22, 2019 8:11 am Post subject: |
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I can remember watching many races at MIS that the Petty car colors
jumped off the track!
Not only was the blue easily visible down the back stretch, the
"flourecent dayglo orange" was too!!!!!
It was easily seen that the "STP" logo on the 1/4 panel was red.
The paint on the side was different!! =)
Now, how that translates to film, camera settings, cloud cover and even memories is what's up for discussion all these years later! lol!
MoPar paint TB3 is pretty much DEAD ON.
The #88 Engineering Daytona was painted before the first Talladega race.
I have a video clip of it setting the record for the pole.
At one point, it's next to the Petty Ford.
They were the SAME COLOR, regardless of the fact Chrysler called the paint "Corporate Blue" on the car at that time!
So, I have some original paint parts from the #88, like the driver side headlight cover, that is still blue. It is EXACTLY the same as TB3. |
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18degrees
Joined: 01 Feb 2018 Posts: 1021 Location: metro STL area, ILLINois
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Posted: Sat Jun 22, 2019 7:22 pm Post subject: |
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MCW also produces a neon Vermillion paint. _________________ ON DECK/IN THE WORKS: too many started to list...
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LastoftheV8
Joined: 05 Feb 2018 Posts: 127
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Posted: Wed Jul 10, 2019 2:30 pm Post subject: not trying to color match |
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I'm really looking for tips on how to mask off the sections of pink and blue. and leave al little white around the border. that's the toughest part of the build for me |
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odcics2
Joined: 09 Feb 2018 Posts: 283
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Posted: Sun Jul 14, 2019 6:33 am Post subject: Re: 1973 Petty Charger Build 1/24 scale decals and tips |
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LastoftheV8 wrote: | i looked around (on Mikes and others) for a set of 1/24 decals for the petty 1973 charger. but I have not luck. only found sets for the 1/16 kit. if you know of a vendor or source for a sheet, I would greatly appreciate it.
Also how would you recommend or advise to the do the pink sides and strips on the roof / hood? Im guess any sheet that does exist doesn't have those as decals and you have to paint the blue and pink parts. i have tested Tamiya paints on spare bodies and the blue and pink look great. Just at a loss on how to properly make those sections off. I'm trying to think of a better way than trying to freehand it. |
Probably be easiest to just buy a 1/24 Petty Charger kit to get the correct decals. |
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AdamtheWayne
Joined: 09 Jul 2018 Posts: 1182
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Posted: Sun Jul 14, 2019 4:48 pm Post subject: Re: not trying to color match |
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LastoftheV8 wrote: | I'm really looking for tips on how to mask off the sections of pink and blue. and leave al little white around the border. that's the toughest part of the build for me | Okay well, somehow you're still stuck on "pink" but, to separate the two properly without using decals you'll need a gloss white base. Mask for the area you want blue and paint that first. For best results let that cure for at least a week unless you use an acrylic. The white pinstripe on the Petty Dodges are 3/16ths. You'll need a piece of tempered glass and a steel straight edge. Cut masking tape on the glass to get the width stripe you want. Half a millimeter works for me. Place this strip around the edge of the blue on the white before masking off the entirety of the blue. Spray your fluorescent red, vermillion, pink, whatever.
If you use a fluorescent or neon paint, it is softer and slower curing than any other paint on the planet and attracts dust like the dickens. For the first four hours (Especially with Tamiya) I place the model under a kit box I've dampened with a spray bottle of water. Let it cure at least a day. Score around the edge of your stripe mask between it and the paint, with a fresh blade. This will keep you from ripping the paint as the tape pulls away. Good luck.
For visuals look here:
http://www.randyayersmodeling.com/modelingforum/viewtopic.php?t=1826
Hopefully I can get back to that soon but, the basics are there. _________________ "Dude, it's not Camelot... it's only a model." "Details man, I need details!!" |
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