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Gentlemen... start your Monte's!
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DaveVan



Joined: 27 Jan 2018
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2019 8:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You're making it MUCH better!!!!
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AdamtheWayne



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2019 11:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

DaveVan wrote:
You're making it MUCH better!!!!


Thank you very much. Smile I'm attempting to verify my work right now. I've chosen a photo that's the best, sidelong, dead on shot I could find. From turn signal to tail light the car at it's longest (minus the bumpers) is 206mm long. (The model)

I've printed out several photos of the car at exactly that length. Time to see if we can get this baby through inspection. Laughing
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AdamtheWayne



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2019 12:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not for nothin but, I thought I'd add the reason I decided to do a half/half car.

Back in the late 70's, before the Monogram stockers, I wanted a David Pearson Montego. I had a Johan Torino and an MPC "The Cat" Mercury. A third kit was involved but I can't recall. Mom watched me cut up three good kits and bash them together to make one kit, that didn't exist. This was the genesis of my parents oft spoken phrase "What in heck is he making NOW?!"

But Mom had often said, she always wondered what one of my cars would look like if I "did my thing" on one side, and left the other as it came out of the box, so she could really see the difference.

(Not sure why she never thought to ask me to just build two) Rolling Eyes

So, since Mom was a bit of a Donnie fan, I'm doing this one for Mom, half and half. Smile OH! It was Maaco that had the half and half cars. Always wondered how one of their paint jobs made it through a car wash! I mean, we all put more prep into our models. Laughing
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DaveVan



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2019 1:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I did too build the Pearson Montego from a Torino and Cougar.......
This was built back about 1974....so.....a bit war weary.....
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AdamtheWayne



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2019 1:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

NOICE! I was about thirteen at the time so mine has not survived, but we were both very close to the same car! I redid mine twice because the first time I missed filling in the scallops down the side.
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john843



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2019 3:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just got home from the PO with my DonnieCarlo. (Ordered it from Ronnie at SMH late Wed. afternoon and it was at the PO at 9 this am.) My overwhelming thought on it is, and I haven't even opened it yet, is that it can't hand me anything that I can't handle to get a replica that I'm more than satisfied with using just what I've seen Adam walk us through so far. I'm confident that it will get even better but with what he's shown us outright and alluded to will get me where I want it quicker and waaay better. Thanks for doing the thinking part for me Adam:)
John
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AdamtheWayne



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2019 6:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Guys, you're gonna love this!

Often on a conversion or kit bash, I like to check my work like this: I found a good, side long, dead on shot of a 1975 Monte. Measuring the car from the turn signal leading edge to the tail light trailing edge at the bumpers, I get 206mm.

I printed out my photo at this length. Then I cut it out in such a way as to help me figure out a panel shape, like the muscle swoops here. My first attempt I lined up the door gap (at the rear).





Not bad eh? About a quarter inch or less off, all the way down. SO, I ignored the door gaps and lined it up with the muscles, ignoring the wheel wells and gaps. This is what I got.





My front end swoop is a bit far back according to the "photo" and the rear is a hair high at the tail light. Other than that, it's golden!

I mean, I was going to do a bit about laying over the fender swoops to force the right position and shape but... don't need it!

Tomorrow is my Mom's 89th birthday and the Daytona is Sunday so, I might not get any more done until after the race but we'll see. Very Happy
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DaveVan



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2019 6:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's some cool imageneering......and creates more questions!!! Thanks
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octopusmotor



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2019 8:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What else is there to say? When you're good, you're good. Wink

After all this good work I think you deserve a little time off. Happy birthday to Mom!

Jodie Peeler
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AdamtheWayne



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2019 9:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

john843 wrote:
Just got home from the PO with my DonnieCarlo. (Ordered it from Ronnie at SMH late Wed. afternoon and it was at the PO at 9 this am.) My overwhelming thought on it is, and I haven't even opened it yet, is that it can't hand me anything that I can't handle to get a replica that I'm more than satisfied with using just what I've seen Adam walk us through so far. I'm confident that it will get even better but with what he's shown us outright and alluded to will get me where I want it quicker and waaay better. Thanks for doing the thinking part for me Adam:)
John


Question: How is the window trim? Oh, and if you insist on accusing me of thinking, I'm afraid we can't be friends sir! Wink
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AdamtheWayne



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PostPosted: Fri Feb 15, 2019 9:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

octopusmotor wrote:
What else is there to say? When you're good, you're good. Wink

After all this good work I think you deserve a little time off. Happy birthday to Mom!

Jodie Peeler
You guys might get a kick out of this. As per Mother's birthday request we will start about one in the afternoon and watch "Peter Rabbit" (oy). Then, I am to make dinner. She wants General Tso's chicken. After dinner we'll have cupcakes and ice cream while she watches me play Red dead redemption. I honestly have no idea what it is about a cowboy video game that tickles her so, but she loves watching me play! Go figure right?

Keep in mind... the woman is going to be 89. Other than this game and television, you can't talk her near anything electronic. Laughing
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AdamtheWayne



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PostPosted: Sat Feb 16, 2019 5:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I'm sittin there enjoyin a birthday cupcake with Mom, showing her what I'm doing with the Monte. I showed her how the Pontiac chassis was too short in the drive train. She picks up the car and looks through the wheel wells, adjusting the rear axle area to the well. Then she checks the front. Sure enough it's way behind where it should be. Next thing I know she's Mona Lisa Vito!

(Honk if you get the reference)

And she tells me quote: "The seventies Monte Carlo's ran a 116 inch wheelbase until the platform was shortened in 1978 to 108 inches. The 1982 Grand Prix is a 108 inch chassis. When this style of Monte began running the Ford teams complained the car had a weight advantage because of the length of the hood. To shut the Ford teams up NASCAR ordered the motors moved forward by two, or two and a half inches. The motor mounts on this chassis are ten inches off... in scale." Shocked Shocked

I don't have the heart to tell her she's wrong about the kit measurement, but everything else she said was spot on!
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AdamtheWayne



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PostPosted: Sat Feb 16, 2019 8:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As I suspected she would, Moms petered out early. even the sugar rush couldn't keep her going. Smile

Me? I wanna get this thing home! For me, there are three more areas to fix, three more that could (depending on your own tastes) use a little something extra.

1: The rear of the deck lid. I know the teams were all scrambling to smooth things over for aerodymanic reasons, but the trunk still had to open!
2: The fenderwell bulges. We removed the bulk of those in our mad dash to straighten (irony) out the sides. These were for tire clearance and if you want Monty's nose in the weeds, we better fix it.
3: Windsheild trim... nuff said!!



4: The bumpers. I haven't bothered trying to strip them. When I pick up both a SG bumper and the Revellogram bumper, the ambient temperature difference is quite palpable! So it's obvious they've done the real chrome thing again, which is actually starting to wrankle me. It wouldn't be so bad but, go back up the page and find the overhead shot of the bumper, I'll wait...…..

See that highly visible, UN polished section? How do you fix that when you can't strip the chrome? The long way is this: Mask off the entire bumper leaving a visible top edge about .5mm thick. Load a wire brush into your Dremel and brush the exposed area to rough the chrome. Replace the mask, because the wire brush totally trashed the edges. Using and automotive grade scratch filler cover the area with a thin coat of putty. Sand smooth and paint to match the car.
The easy way is I make you a set, so hold off on the wire brush, K?

5: The grille. SG actually did us a solid on the front bumper. You'll note when you test fit it, it is actually canted downward as was on most of the cars. Unfortunately they still made the grille so it stands vertically. This means when the bumper sits level, the grille is canted forward top to bottom instead of inward.

6: Fender swoop... sweep? Whatever. Although I'm happy with mine as is, according to the slew of references provided by the members here, it could handle a little more up front so I'm going to do so, more to show you the technique than anything.

Finally, I'm going to have a bonus technique, to show you my fender notching method. This is something you MAY want to try on the Monte, but if you have a Polar Lights Torino or Cyclone you WILL want to use it.

Let's start with #1. I've always found it a great starting point, use it all the time.
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Bill J



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PostPosted: Sat Feb 16, 2019 10:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I much appreciate the thread Adam. You are definitely improving the Monte for everyone. I have not bought one, not actually planning on it, but you are making it seem more desirable for sure.

Great work so far, keep it coming, it makes us all better modelers or at least gets us thinking Smile
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AdamtheWayne



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PostPosted: Sun Feb 17, 2019 2:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you Bill! Appreciate the attaboy. Smile

Next up: Bringing up the rear!

Without the benefit of being able to reduce the backside of my tail light pods, I used a thinner plastic on this than I should have. It achieved the purpose but you'll want to double it.

As I stated before, this car benefits big time by shaving 1mm off the backside of the tail light pods. This requires either sanding back the deck lid an equal distance OR filling it in.



Just fill it! This is the one thing Monogram started back in the eighties I just hated. Of all the weird things a body man saw, I guarantee he never looked at a notch across the deck lid. Close this gap with a single strip of plastic if you can, with just a little bit higher than the deck lid.



Next you want a piece of .030 thick by .250 wide evergreen strip. You need a piece 54mm long. At 27mm (the center) bend it over something narrow to create a peak like in the car. Glue this piece directly across the bottom. The edge will meet the peak edge in the center but may leave a bit of plastic below the outer edges. Note that the bumper meets the bottom edge all the way, but there's a slight gap at the lights?

Do the same with a second piece directly above. The amount of gap you leave is up to you. Mine is too wide. With this in place sand in the top of the deck lid and round the edge just slightly.

Use the .030 plastic to cover the tail light buckets so you have a gap, yet the inside edge is level with the deck tail.



With the other tail light done you now have a trunk area that depicts a 1974 or 75 style Monte Carlo.

If you are doing a 1973, Your deck lid would cover the entire area above the bumper and a blank of metal would be over the license mount in the bumper. We'll get to that later.

SPOILERS! No seriously, now we need a spoiler. Since we eradicated the spoiler slot, we can no longer use the too thick kit spoiler. You'll choose your own strip plastic for this, but .010 strip is 1/4 inch in scale. I used .015 thick because it was on hand and easy to work with.

Because of the shape of the deck lid these spoilers were split in the middle. I mounted two .015 x 1.5 strips for the base and .015 x 4mm for the uprights.

The support strip mount just below the deck lid surface to create a notch for the upper half to sit in.







SPOILER ALERT!! I'm about to share with you one of my biggest secrets!





RIVETS!! HAAAAhahahahahahahahahahahahaaa Count'em, count'em, COUNT THEM! Laughing Laughing

This particular detail brought to you by a nifty little item called Archer 3D printed decals.


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AdamtheWayne



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PostPosted: Sun Feb 17, 2019 3:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote








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Lionpride



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PostPosted: Sun Feb 17, 2019 10:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

NICE bumper mods!!!
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AdamtheWayne



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2019 12:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Lionpride!

Quick question guys. Does anyone here know where Donnie's oil reservoir and battery were mounted?
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DaveVan



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2019 3:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I finally got my hands on the Monte.....Thanks to Mike's Decals.....(my wholesaler still can not get the kits????)
Just opening the box with first look impressions.
I'll deal with what I see....not anything I've heard.
First thing it is better in person than in photos. Not sure why but close up photos alter the LOOK of some parts of the body. It AIN'T perfect, what is, but not a hot mess. And MOST of the issues are fixable as Adam has been showing us. He may even doing more fixes than I feel are REQUIRED.
Things I FEEL need to be fixed.
The roof has a odd ridge starting at the windshield center, back to mid roof. Maybe this is one some real car....but never on any ever saw. EASY fix with sanding stick.
Tail light covers: WAY to extreme to replicate any car I ever saw and not allowable by NASCAR ever. During this period the covers, front and back, had to be in the exact location as the glass/plastic of the stock showroom car. Again....an easy fix....but I will fill the backside with epoxy in case I need to sand that much.
Style line on lower door area. This is way to sharp for a racer. It needs only a slight edge knock off to be good.
Front fender ridge. To flat and to sharp. Once nose is attached a few minutes will fix it into something acceptable but will not 100% correct.
Grille/nose peak. Just way to pointy (a high tech word some my not understand)This is one spot that when I placed the Salvino's body next to Revell really stood out. And I see no fix. Sanding the upper edge to a little more of a bull nose will help some. The raised area below the headlight rounds are gonna be tough to fix....I hate them as they need to be fixed but may not be worth the effort. Salvino's....fix this issue please. The area under the headlights spacing is off......Adam's fix should work for this.
Roof side. This is a common issue on kits and a easy fix on most kits. Same here. The big seam needs knocked off and the edge softened some.
Chassis:
One of the first things I went to was the corrected suspension as I felt this was a MAJOR flaw in the OLDS version. It is still not near correct. When I get time I will photo the two rear suspensions side by side. GM did not make truck trailing arms as small as they are in the Salvino's kits. Just the facts. So those AMT 90's era kits I bought for parts are still needed. Not good for a new tool kit at almost $40.....I should not have to buy a whole kit to fix another.
Lots of other chassis fixes are in the box....but until I can get to the workbench and start putting things together....I'll not know what is good or not.
The roll cage is funky....but back in the day it may have been one like it. Per NASCAR rules the front cage support should be vertical and not back at a 45 degree.....but once built...I can't see so not a make or break. The flared out cage sides are odd....but again maybe right.
So it's better than what I had read by some. But when announced I saw myself buying 24 of them, there are that many I'd like to build, but looking at 2 or 3 max.....if my wholesaler ever gets any. Thank

IMHO ONLY remember!!!!!
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AdamtheWayne



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2019 5:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How is the windshield trim?
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DaveVan



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PostPosted: Tue Feb 19, 2019 5:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

AdamtheWayne wrote:
How is the windshield trim?
Mine is good across the top.....it fades into nothing a the base of the A pillars. I figure I will scribe a line, foil it and be OK......
I have discovered with cutting some parts off, the chassis is a good 1/4" to narrow....so that will have to be fix...... Crying or Very sad
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AdamtheWayne



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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2019 10:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I actually wasn't going to do this fender mod, but I'm glad I did. Thing is, to do the fender flares, you need to do this first if you're going to do it.

This adds just a tiny bit more sweep to the fender top and a little more backset to the forward edge.

I apologize for the terrible photo quality. Start by sanding clean the fender top, even if you haven't primered yours, it promotes adhesion.


Start with a drop of super glue where the fender levels out, no need to go all the way to the door. Place your length of plastic along the fender top and allow the super glue to set. Did it give you fuss lining it up and cutting it? Of course it did if you didn't trim the length. Always figure out your length and cut just a little bit more to hold onto. The shorter the strip plastic the better your odds of holding a straight line.

Next a drop of super glue atop the fender corner aaaaaaaand hold. Once both glue joints are solid complete the run around the corner to the bottom of the fender. It should look like this, except not blurry. Unless you have crappy eyesight, then it should look awesome! Smile







This is sanded to shape easily using the emery board after you've sealed the rest of the length down with gap filling glue and allowed it to set. Again, this is a very subtle change but makes a difference.

These next few photos aren't much better. I'm trying to adjust my camera. To fix the trim around the window is a much easier task than one would think. You'll need some Evergreen 1mm half round.

Whenever making modifications I always look at my parameters. They are essentially, what cannot be changed, and what can. Pretty simple huh?

THIS car's windshield mounts by gluing a tab atop the windshield which meets a flat spot under the trim, and gluing or hanging the notch in the bottom against the support arch across the rear of the engine bay. The sides of the windshield press against the A pillars. Not very impressive.

One thing I loved about the 80's Monogram kits was the exterior mounted windshields. We could do that here but it's more work than we need.

Sand the trim flat and even until you just barely start digging into the surrounding plastic. This should give you a defined edge for the new strip plastic.



Don't be afraid to check your corners. The notch next to the speed clips will not be square so use a blade or file to square them up. You want the new plastic to fit tight. The middle parts of the roof are textbook. Follow the gap and lay a strip of half round over the mid sections going from clip to clip.

Now lay a piece of strip on a solid surface. Use a toothpick, fingernail, something to bub the plastic and warm a small section of it. Rub for a few seconds then quick like a bunny lay it in place and make a bend. Once you've got a bend started, you can continue to rub the plastic in your fingers and shape it until it's good enough to glue down. CLOSE is good enough. Place a small dot of super glue by the speed clip at the corner and just glue down that one spot.

When that's cured, cut the other end so the trim's tip just tucks in behind the fender. Glue it down with gap filling glue in case you need to shift it a bit.



Now you have a hard edge to scribe against. This edge will help you guard against skip-and-chip, which this plastic wants to do. Whatever you scribe with, make it sharp!

The reason we use the half round. Half round is my go to for trim because trim usually has some sort of curled edge to grab the body clips that hold it in place. Why not replicate that too if possible?

It's especially useful in this application. All the stunt sanding we've done has been about outright fixing, or tricking the eye. This is one more trick.

If you've never tried scribing, or after all this just don't wanna (!), I get it. If you sand the trim down just enough, you get a nice, straight trim with a tiny rolled edge that alludes to a trim gap... that isn't even there. But the eye sees nice brightwork and simply ignores the fact the gap isn't there... in theory.







Lemme see can I not get a better photo, be right back...
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AdamtheWayne



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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2019 10:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote








Notice how now it seems as though the A pillar trim has a gap? Trick of light using simple half round. Smile







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AdamtheWayne



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PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2019 10:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bump...


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AdamtheWayne



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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2019 2:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

octopusmotor wrote:
What else is there to say? When you're good, you're good. Wink

After all this good work I think you deserve a little time off. Happy birthday to Mom!

Jodie Peeler
Yeah... but when I say it, folks gives me dirty looks. Wink
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AdamtheWayne



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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2019 2:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

QUICKIE UPDATE: It CAN be scribed! Just be sure to sand over the area first to break the surface. The skip and chip seemed to be caused by what I can only describe as a surface glaze. Scuff that off and scribing is no problem. Smile
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Lionpride



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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2019 7:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I’m glad I still have a nice stash of these.
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AdamtheWayne



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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2019 7:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lionpride wrote:
I’m glad I still have a nice stash of these.
I hate to tell you but, they're too small.
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AdamtheWayne



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PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2019 11:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I hope it doesn't seem as though this thread has stalled, it has not. just working out some logistics YOU all can help me with.

Pertaining to the 1976/77 front clip. Would you prefer the grille area be cast in with the panel or separate? I'm thinking in terms of adding mesh screen.
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FallsCity48



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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2019 2:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

[size=18]
AdamtheWayne wrote:

SPOILER ALERT!! I'm about to share with you one of my biggest secrets!



RIVETS!! HAAAAhahahahahahahahahahahahaaa Count'em, count'em, COUNT THEM! Laughing Laughing

This particular detail brought to you by a nifty little item called Archer 3D printed decals.



AdamtheWayne, Fantastic detail....Thanks for sharing!
What size are you using & what's the best place to get them??
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AdamtheWayne



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PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2019 11:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

[/quote]

AdamtheWayne, Fantastic detail....Thanks for sharing!
What size are you using & what's the best place to get them??
[/quote]

Those are Archer, #AR88001 surface detail decals. I got these on ebay, but I believe many outlets carry them. They are mostly for trains but, recently they've started doing Dzus fasteners and more. Smile
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AdamtheWayne



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PostPosted: Sat Mar 02, 2019 10:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The following is brought to you by the letter "F"

"F" is for Fender. "F" is for Flare. "F" is for FAILURE! You're a FAILURE Adam! (ahem) "F" is for flashback....

Sorry, I'm in a goofy mood.

Remember those googly eyes from earlier? Those are an inch and 3/16ths wide. I cut them open and removed the lip, then painted one inside with primer because I could barely see the dang thing.



With a tape handle and some 200 grit I sanded until I had a shallow, convex surface with a smooth, flat side. This can then be cut to size and easily glued to the side of the car. I prefer to work all plastic, no filler, but in this case a tiny bit of filler around the join to blend the bodywork would be okay. I used a little up front when I re-did the top of the front fender.

I like to use Gorilla glue for this. Any glue that get's on the car outside the seam, will turn rubbery and scrape away easily with a toothpick or thumbnail. If it isn't between two somethings, it removes pretty easily.

Another method, involves cutting a half moon from a piece of .020 plastic sheet.



You'll need a 3M sanding sponge or similar item and a Sharpie or... similar item.

Sand the outer edge of your moon to bevel it back as sharply as you can.



I hope you can see that. Next, with the bevel facing up, place the moon on the sponge. Use the Sharpie to rub from the straight edge, up into the half circle, working back and forth, side to side.
Friction will warm the plastic and the sponge will shape it like this.







The half moon should conform pretty well to the side of your car now, just like the googly. The added bevel will help keep the plastic close to the surrounding surface. Once the Gorilla glue has set, seal the edges with gap filler and Bondo glazing putty if necessary.

Some guys will use bondo for body work and I've even seen guys use body glaze to build a flare. In time it will crack and ruin the car. Don't do it.

This same method can be used on any fender of any car. Always remember, it doesn't have to be perfect, the real thing rarely was.

Back in a bit with the final tip.
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AdamtheWayne



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PostPosted: Sun Mar 03, 2019 12:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm going to softball this one because except for the shape, the front flares are much like the rear in process.

You'll need to start with more .020 sheet or strip in roughly this shape.



Once you have your wheel base set, locate and mark where you want your flares to go. Over the wheel seems to be popular. Wink



You're going to do the same friction shaping as you did on the rear just in a smaller scale. (Okay, not sure how I feel about that last pun. I think it was weak. was it?)

Bevel the underside edges, keeping the points aligned with the grooves in the body roll. Flip it so the bevel faces up and and place it on your sponge. Using a ball point (preferably a dry one) or old mechanical pencil tip, trace the center line point to point. This will give you your convex arch like the rear flare. Glue it down with the Gorilla glue (Unpaid endorsement!) and seal with the gap filler.

BONUS TIP! I promised.

Here is a sad old, Polar Lights Torino. These cars were notorious for their high brow, nose in the air attitude. Nobody liked them because they were misshapen and arrogant looking. BUT, as builders we power through. Here's an easy bonus tip I almost used on the Monte, but it can be used for any warped or out of shape kit.



Make your marks (I think mine are about 1/4 inch too far forward) straight across the car, marking the outer fender and inner wall only.

If you don't cut the fenders in nearly the exact same spot, each side, it causes problems later on. You want to cut (razor saw is best) straight across through the inner and outer fender but not the top. This should leave you about a 1mm gap, which is all you need here.



I attach a thin piece of sheet behind the fender and across the gap. Glue only the rear portion down and leave a little space between the sheet and the top of the fender. As the fender flexes, the attitude of the sheet plastic will change and bind against the fender top.



Next I taped the car to a piece of glass thusly, with two popsicle sticks at the front.







Using tape to pull the nose down to the sticks, add glue to the front half of the sheet plastic backings and let it set. After the Gorilla glue has set for at least four hours, go get your wife's hair dryer. Set it on hot and hold your hand in front of it closer and closer until it burns. (Seriously, don't do that!) Hold the hair dryer eight inches away from the model and move it back and forth as if you're painting. In other words go past the model before swinging back. Do this for only twenty to thirty seconds and it will set the new arch to the fender tops. You are now free to pack the wound with scrap plastic and super glue.

Keep in mind, this may cause small issues with the hood fit. It did not on mine.

I am going to put together my final thoughts on Revell vs. SG and then I feel like I've done all I can.
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AdamtheWayne



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PostPosted: Fri Mar 08, 2019 11:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Allrighty then, I need to sew this one shut before moving on to the next victi… phase. The next phase.

My thoughts on the Salvinos Monte Carlo Vs. Revell Vs. Resin.
Okay unfortunately resin didn't respond by press time so without them here to defend themselves I feel it prudent to abstain from comment.

Both cars have their shortcomings and both have their positive side. The biggest difference being the sanding.

To make a stocker out of the Revell you'll have to remove the vinyl top without destroying the rear window trim, remove the rocker and side trim, smooth the body and fill the appropriate areas with sheet plastic or putty, all after spending a good two hours scribing out the hood. All this on RED of all plastics! For some reason the red styrene is tough as nails to sand but picks up stress marks easily. the only plastic more of a booger to sand is black. Black plastic is right next door to clear in brittleness. But I digress.

On the Salvinos you have to spend a few minutes to an hour gently sanding (Almost the whole car) to coax it into a more pleasing shape. This on high grade white plastic, that if you didn't see my mention before, sands like a dream! Granted, there should be ZERO need for ANY reshaping! But as bodies go, we could have come out much worse! They could have molded them red! Something Jim assures me Salvinos will not do.

When I started this, I was asked if I wanted the Salvinos car to be like the Revell. At this point I would have to say yes and no. They are an odd twin mixture of right and waaaaaayyyy out in left field. While the Revell hood has a more pleasing shape overall and looks as though it's at home with round or square headlights, the vents are too wide and too deep. Salvinos got the vents right and although the peak is too high in the front, the hood blends in with either nose clip.

And you don't have to cut it out.
As for the main body, exclude the trim and vinyl and the Revell has an overall more pleasing shape.


Turns out there's a reason for this. While there's no denying the linear nature of the fender sweeps (yuck!) what throws a lot of people off when they look at these cars is the fender flares. From Abby and Kyle, to a couple of local friends, they all thought the body was warped. In fact my buddy Mongo (had the knickname before the movie) asked how I'd fix it.

Most of us, have never seen one of these cars up close. The closest view we ever got was behind the fence or worse, on tv! We never noticed the subtle flares on the fenders. Even up close at a show, more often than not we were looking at a show car or replica. even then if it had flares we likely didn't notice. So we leave the race and see that car on the street. We imagine it in red with a big #1 or blue and a #43. We more often than not equate what we see on the street with the "stock" car we saw last weekend.

Stock cars haven't been stock, for several decades now. So when we see a stock car, in it's natural state, it can be a bit confusing, followed by off putting.

I have two major complaints with the car, that would have made it better out of the box for most people. I'm not mentioning the windshield trim because that's a mold issue they assure me won't be happening again.

But there's the sweeps on the fenders and the nose clips/bumpers. Yes I'm somehow fast becoming the bumper guy ( Razz ) but I feel a proper front bumper and just a little more effort on the nose clips would have given us a reason to overlook all the other little things like the lack of trunk lines on the rear and the roof crease.

Again, all of it's issues are basically nothing fixes. But they're unnecessary fixes. In other words you shouldn't have to do them.

However, for the first time we have a Monte Carlo geared directly to the stock car market that we don't need 60 grit to get into shape. With a lot less work than the Revell you get a car that can cover 1973 to 1980. Seven years of cars and how many drivers each year? Obviously the possibilities are not endless unless you count fantasy and movie cars but, with what I know now, the future is getting a little brighter for stock car builders.

The Monogram's are coming back. All the favorites and new body sets. Improvements are constantly being made or at least attempted and they have two factories running their molds. With Mike and Cartograph in their corner we'll never want for a good set of decals.

Sometimes we open a model kit and we are overjoyed. Sometimes the cellophane comes off and we laugh out loud at first glance. Then there are times you want to cry and times you get angry. These are all because we are human. We can't help it. But later on when the dust settles, sometimes years go by, our models almost always get a second chance.

But we're modelers. Taking some parts and making the best looking model we can, realistic or not, is the goal. Sometimes we get a kit (Cough, Buick Regal, cough) that's so good, you can only think what to add and ignore what needs fixed. Sometimes we get a kit that seems it needs everything fixed, never mind how to dress it.

I view this as a middle range kit. It's NOT up to par with the Monogram and AMT kits. They KNOW this. It's also not a horriffic tire fire like the old Palmer's. If you've built more than one MPC NASCAR kit, you should be fairly at home with this.

If you prefer a more detailed kit, do the light sanding on the body, throw a Monogram chassis under it. I'm thinking it's an easy conversion. That's why I'm going to continue this build with the chassis next... after I take care of a few others. Rolling Eyes
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spooker



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PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2019 4:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very thorough and informative, thanks for all your hard work (altho my Revell kit is molded in metallic blue and seems to sand easily!). The previously cast resin bumpers may be too small for the Salvino's kit, but as they were mastered from modified Revell bumpers, they fit the Revell body perfectly! I will be ordering a couple of these shortly to see for myself, your thoughts and comments have prepared me well!

Brian
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spooker



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PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2019 4:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very thorough and informative, thanks for all your hard work (altho my Revell kit is molded in metallic blue and seems to sand easily!). The previously cast resin bumpers may be too small for the Salvino's kit, but as they were mastered from modified Revell bumpers, they fit the Revell body perfectly! I will be ordering a couple of these shortly to see for myself, your thoughts and comments have prepared me well!

Brian
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AdamtheWayne



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PostPosted: Tue Mar 12, 2019 6:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

spooker wrote:
Very thorough and informative, thanks for all your hard work (altho my Revell kit is molded in metallic blue and seems to sand easily!). The previously cast resin bumpers may be too small for the Salvino's kit, but as they were mastered from modified Revell bumpers, they fit the Revell body perfectly! I will be ordering a couple of these shortly to see for myself, your thoughts and comments have prepared me well!

Brian
I have the metallic blue one as well. It does seem to sand much easier than the red and black. Not to infer any of them were cast in black. The cast resin bumpers are nice and do fit well. I have a couple here thanks to another member. I'm glad to have been even a little bit of help. Thank you. Smile
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Lionpride



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PostPosted: Mon Mar 18, 2019 8:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Adam or anybody. I have successfully cut out the Hood of a Revell kit. What is the best way to support the hood in the correct position now? Run narrow strips along each side of the body for the hood to rest on? It doesn't have for lack of better words, a "cowl strip." I don't necessarily need working hood hinges, just something for the hood to rest flush on with the body.

Thanks,
Don
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AdamtheWayne



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PostPosted: Mon Mar 18, 2019 10:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lionpride wrote:
Adam or anybody. I have successfully cut out the Hood of a Revell kit. What is the best way to support the hood in the correct position now? Run narrow strips along each side of the body for the hood to rest on? It doesn't have for lack of better words, a "cowl strip." I don't necessarily need working hood hinges, just something for the hood to rest flush on with the body.

Thanks,
Don
Are you intending to use the Revell body as well, or swap to the Salvinos?

Swapping to the Salvinos is easy as setting the hood in place obviously. For the Revell, there are a number of ways to support the hood. These range from a chip of plastic in each corner to full blown fender lips and hood galleys. The easiest is to put a small square or triangle of sheet plastic in each corner to support the hood in place. From there you can decide how much you want to build it up.
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Lionpride



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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2019 6:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I’m going to use the Revell body. Thanks for the suggestions.
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AdamtheWayne



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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2019 8:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quick tip to help with the hood pins: Cut a thin strip of tape about 1mm wide. Place it straight across the hood and measure/mark the location of the pins. If you're trying to duplicate the pattern of the Salvinos hood which is fairly accurate, make the inner two pin holes on the front side of the tape and the outer two on the back side. You may want to experiment with different widths of tape before drilling. Cheers!
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Jerry Strobel



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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2019 9:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Found their web site but they're not cheap
https://www.archertransfers.com/AR88001.html
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AdamtheWayne



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PostPosted: Fri Apr 05, 2019 7:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jerry Strobel wrote:
Found their web site but they're not cheap
https://www.archertransfers.com/AR88001.html
Grab them on ebay. They're about half that cost.
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Firefly



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PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2019 7:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's a '73 MC in race form:

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Firefly



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PostPosted: Sat Apr 20, 2019 8:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One note on the '73 bumpers: They are not grooved for the rub strips like the later years, they have flat rub strip surfaces. Both front and rear.
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jjsipes



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PostPosted: Sat Aug 03, 2019 7:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Anything new?
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