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Question on Tamiya Fluorescent

 
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john843



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
Posts: 607
Location: S.C. Lowcountry

PostPosted: Sun Mar 03, 2019 2:47 pm    Post subject: Question on Tamiya Fluorescent Reply with quote

I have read and been told directly that when using the T-36 that it had to be applied over white and had to be clear-coated. I saw the need for using it over white immediately, as it barely even shows up over anything much darker. I've not used the fluor. before and frankly thought it would apply and dry flat. But instead, it is one of the smoothest, shiniest results I've ever gotten from a rattle can. My question is, will the paint degrade without the clear-coat or is it just to maximize the gloss effect? I've got the Tamiya TS-13 to clear it with just wondered if the fluor. actually required it or if it's just a plus to do so. I saw where Adam said something about it tending to chip or shatter somewhat when demasking it if I'm not mistaken.

Thanks for any advice ya'll can give me:)

John
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octopusmotor



Joined: 19 Mar 2018
Posts: 111

PostPosted: Sun Mar 03, 2019 3:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A couple years back I used TS-36 as the top coat on a 1973 Gurney Eagle. It laid down smoothly and polished nicely to an in-scale shine with no clear coat. It still looks great now. You shouldn't need to clear-coat it unless you just want to.

Jodie Peeler
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TG
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 03, 2019 3:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree. I used it on 2 cars over white over 5 years ago. Hard, shiny finish that looks the same today as it did then.
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AdamtheWayne



Joined: 09 Jul 2018
Posts: 1182

PostPosted: Sun Mar 03, 2019 3:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Flourescents by and large are finicky paints. They come out (typically) flat and soft. Tamiya has beaten both these issues with a paint that's glossy as well as cures hard. It still has some of the weaker properties of it's predecessors in that scoring of the tape line is best before removing masks because of the tendency to chip and peel as the tape is pulled away. They tend to take longer than average to fully cure.

I've used yellow as a base coat to great success as well as white.

The main reason for top coating any fluorescent is two fold. First there's the dull tendency, but with Tamiya or any other brand, neon colors are not UV safe and will fade quickly in sunlight. Your STP red will quickly become orange in a few days if left in direct sunlight.

Most guys do not display their cars in direct sunlight, but even indirect can have an effect over time. Clearcoating with a UV stable clear, helps arrest this.
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john843



Joined: 28 Jan 2018
Posts: 607
Location: S.C. Lowcountry

PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2019 5:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the info. I primed with the Tamiya fine white primer, let the primer cure a day or so and then hit it with a piece of 3000 grit foam pad before spraying the fluor. Came out great and is good to know I don't have to clear it unless I choose to.

Thanks again,
John
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AdamtheWayne



Joined: 09 Jul 2018
Posts: 1182

PostPosted: Mon Mar 04, 2019 9:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Forgot to add, always make your neon color the last color to go on. They really hate being masked over! I find it best to use gloss as a base rather than flat. It helps the neon's bite better.
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